ASTERABAD. 
37rj 
bay, and of nearly the whole plain of Asterabad, of several capes to the 
westward, projecting into the Caspian Sea, of the mouth of the Gurgan 
River, and of the commencement of the Dasht kipchak. As soon as we 
had descended into the plain, on a level with the sea, we lost the vege¬ 
tation of a cold climate, and found orange and vine trees growing in the 
wildest and rankest profusion. We rode for two hours on flat ground, 
along paths sometimes not more than two feet wide through the jungle. 
It is impossible to conceive a country that would be more easily de¬ 
fended against an invading enemy. On the track over which we tra¬ 
velled, little ground was cleared away for cultivation, and that little, we 
observed, was entrenched within wooden fences. Their dried straw 
was piled upon stacks, raised on high wooden platforms. What most 
attracted our admiration was the cattle, which were of beautiful colours 
and forms, of large size, and equal to those of Europe. The bulls, 
most superb in their appearance, had the hump common to India. 
The jungle continues unbroken to the very walls of Asterabad. About 
a mile before we reached that place, we came upon the high road from 
Mazanderan, which here is about fifteen yards broad, paved in some 
parts, but in winter extremely difficult on account of its deep clay. 
Asterabad is enclosed by a wall and turrets, and a ditch choked with 
bushes and brambles. It may be above one fursung, or four miles in 
circumference. The houses are all covered with baked tiles and shelving 
roofs, and are constructed of sun and kiln burnt bricks, much inter¬ 
mixed with wood. At present the interior of the town looks like a large 
straggling village, where here and there occurs a succession of con¬ 
nected streets, and where the houses are much interspersed with trees. 
The great and almost continual rains have taught the inhabitants more 
comforts than are seen in other Persian cities. Wherever the houses are 
connected into streets a pavement intervenes; their doors and windows 
are better contrived; and the general structure of the buildings is more 
solid and compact. But the whole bespeaks a great want of popula¬ 
tion and prosperity. They reckon only 1000 families resident in Aster¬ 
abad, of which few are in good circumstances. A great appearance of 
