398 
KARS. 
After having travelled all day in the snow, we at length discovered 
the town of Kars, at a considerable distance before we reached it. It 
is situated on and about a most picturesque rock, and is watered by a 
very considerable river, over which there are some substantial bridges. 
The castle, which is built on the summit of the rock, with its castellated 
walls, winding about in various directions, is defended by six guns, of 
small calibre. These were fired on the day we arrived, which happened 
to be the festival of the Beyram. The houses are all built of stone, 
strong as castles, and are lighted by little peep-holes, on account of 
the excessive cold. I was lodged at an Armenian dyer’s, in a large and 
substantial stone house, containing five or six rooms, besides store¬ 
houses, kitchen, &c., which he told me he had bought for 1000 
Turkish piastres, (about ^40,) but which he could not build for 3000. 
The women’s apartments, including the kitchen, and in which indeed 
the whole family appeared to live, were lighted by an aperture from the 
ceiling. 
Kars is the seat of a Pasha of three tails, who keeps up little state, 
as the appointment in so remote a part of the empire is not much re¬ 
lished by the Turkish employes; and consequently, living in the hope 
of being appointed to another government, they do not go to great 
expense in their establishment. 
On the 12th we departed from Kars, and stopped at Deli Ahmed for 
the night, although the regular post is at Javlak. The weather con¬ 
tinued extremely cold; and as long as we were exposed to the air, 
every hair of our mustachios was distended into a stiffened icicle, and 
whatever was moistened by the breath immediately became ice. On 
the 13th we crossed the Savanlou Dagh, a long straggling mountain, 
covered with fir-trees, which supply all the surrounding country with 
fuel and timber. It is famous for being the retreat of the Courdish 
robbers, who, in the summer when they and their cattle can live under 
the trees and on the pasturages, are constantly on the look-out for 
travellers or caravans. They have, however, of late been kept in awe, 
by the severity of Baba Pasha, 
