BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 
209 
necessary to remove the small piece of wood which is brought 
away by the knife from the bud altogether, which is done by 
raising one end, and with a quick jerk draw it from the bark ; 
but the great liability to spoil the bud in this manner has driven 
the custom out of practice, for it was equally likely that the 
centre of the bud itself would be drawn out in removing the 
wood as that it should remain, and if the shield is cut thin, the 
very small piece attached to it will cause no hindrance either to 
the operation or its ultimate success. Should, however, the 
knife enter rather too deeply, the thickness of wood may be 
reduced by paring until there is little or none left. The leaf 
attached to the bud should be cut off, and then it is ready for 
insertion. With the handle of the knife raise the bark of the 
stock, and gently press the bud into its place by slipping it 
under the bark of the stock, so that the latter may completely 
overlap it on all the edges; then, with the bast, tie the whole 
tightly round, so as to exclude air from every part, except 
just above the eye, and it is complete. The accompanying 
engravings will make all apparent that we have failed to con¬ 
vey in words, and we have only to urge the importance of doing 
everything connected with it in as quick a manner as possible, 
that no part of the bark or wood may become dry. 
Grafting is performed in various ways, to suit the circumstances 
of peculiar cases. The most usual is the cleft, or crown graft, 
and the whip graft. The first is to be preferred, as it affords 
superior opportunity for securely fastening the scion, which is 
also assisted by the wedge shape of the latter, and this mode 
is more likely to succeed, because of the greater surface presented 
to the union. For root grafting and the working of hard tliin- 
barked subjects it is so decidedly preferable, as to be almost 
