THE LADIES’ MAGAZINE OF GARDENING. 
47 
but if water be poured carelessly on the earth containing the smaller seeds, 
they will be displaced, and will never vegetate. The small seeds, if good, 
will generally begin to appear above ground a few days after they are 
sown, and the whole will be “ up ” within a month ; while the large seeds 
will be frequently six months or more before they show any symptoms of 
vitality. When the large seeds have been sown a long time without 
vegetating, and the surface of the mould looks hard and crusty, or is 
covered with moss, the surface of the soil may be safely removed, as the 
depth at which the seeds were sown is known. Removing this covering 
will lay bare the seeds, and thus it will be easy to ascertain what state 
they are in; and after removing those that have become rotten, &c., the rest 
may be covered with fresh soil. Now this could not have been done if 
the seeds had been sown promiscuously, as the covering to the large seeds 
could not have been removed without injuring the smaller seeds, which 
were less deeply sown. 
From the middle of March to the end of that month, is the best time 
for sowing foreign seeds; but they may be sown till the middle or end of 
July, though not later, to avoid the difficulties attendant on the rearing 
a large young family of plants in winter—a charge that weighs heavily, even 
upon the best and most experienced gardeners. 
No air need be given to the frame till the young plants begin to appear; 
as the closer the frame is kept, the less water will be required, and the 
sooner the plants will vegetate. As, however, air is useful to the young 
plants, it is best, if practicable, to remove those pots in which “ the seeds 
are up,” to another frame to which air can be freely admitted. As the 
seedlings increase in growth, more air should be admitted; and if any of 
them look yellowish or drawn up, it is a proof that the bed is too hot for 
them, and that they should either have more air or be removed to a cooler 
place. When the plants have expanded their second pair of leaves, they 
are generally ready for transplanting. To understand this, it must be 
observed that the seed-leaves or cotyledons of all plants are different from 
their true leaves, and that it is not till the true leaves appear that the 
plant will bear transplanting. When the seedlings are transplanted, they 
should be put into very small pots ; and if the young plants are very small, 
from three to six may be put in each pot. They will require a little water 
as soon as they are potted, and to be shaded from the sun till they begin 
to grow. When the first pots are filled with roots, which may be seen 
by turning the ball out on the hand, the plants should be shifted into pots 
a little larger, shifting again as often as necessary. The soil should be a 
light compost of equal parts of peat and loam, mixed with one-half of sand 
for the first two shiftings, and afterwards less sand and loam. The plants 
