the manners and customs OF THE MALAYS 279 
fc. suda sndu with a raised border behind, and k. rotan made 
entirely of rattan. The thin kinds are the k. blanga similar 
in shape to the preceding, and the k kape k^pe which covers 
the whole head leaving only the face exposed. The k. Bu - 
pis is thicker than these but soft, being made either of the 
pith of the rSsam plant, or of tang-si from China. Both are 
dyed black, and the latter has a border of silver foil. The 
turban (sirban. Urban ) is only worn by hajis and old persons. 
The saputangan siii or siri handkerc ief is held in the 
hand and sometimes thrown over the shoulder. In one 
corner, a simpotan or gidibmg siri or piece of cloth is tied 
which contains a tepa siri a small box holding siri, a small 
receptacle for tobacco generally made of pandan leaf, and the 
tampat kapordn or pekaporan a small brass cup, but often 
merely a leaf, containing moist lime. The sibe which is 
longer than the saputangan, is worn on the shoulder by hajis, 
and occasionally by others. 
A kind of very small handkerchief or yellow cloth used by 
the attendants of kings is called kain ivali , and a long one th 
tampan. The salampei is a yellow handkerchief, sometimes 
ornamented with gold, which the great officers of state wear 
thrown over the shoulder, at royal feasts, burials &c. 
The chapal or kaus are sandals used by the wealthier 
and more respectable men but unknown to the poorer. The 
cheinilla are an antique kind of slipper only worn by a few 
on days ceremony. 
With the exception to be mentioned, the only distinction 
between the dress of the higher and wealthier and the lower 
classes, consists in the difference of quality in the materials. 
The form of the different articles is the same for all, and has 
remained so from time immemorial. A Malay who now 
varied the form of any article, would be encountered by uni¬ 
versal astonishment and ridicule. 
The materials of dress vary according to the means and 
taste of the wearer, and there is no prejudice against the 
use of any kind of cloth whatever. The favorite sarong is 
the Bugis, which is stronger, finer and more expensive than 
the manufactures of other countries. It is always stdped and 
according to different patterns, in both respects resembling 
the Scotch tartan. It is not dyed but woven of threads of 
different colours The darker are preferred, and the most 
tastefully coloured is considered to be a mixture of a fine black 
and white, which is the most rare and expensive of all, from 
the difficulty of procuring a fine black colour. A sarong in 
which red predomiaates is the favorite dress of the great mass. 
