TRAVELS IN THE C A L 1 F 0 11 N I A S. 
415 
journey became more and more elevated and beautiful as we 
advanced, till, on a bright afternoon of June, we halted on the 
heights to view the old home of Montezuma, and the country 
far and wide in all directions around us. It was an entranc¬ 
ing sight! The green fields lay near, and southward the circle 
of smoking and snow-clad mountains which environ the vale 
—the lakes—and the city of Mexico ! Our mules rushed 
down the mountains—our coach rattled on the causeway 
where Cortez’ men fell before the arrows of the Children of the 
Sun; our feet trode the great square, where Montezuma per¬ 
ished, and we took lodgings near the site of his great temple ! 
We tarried in Mexico a week—looked at the steel armor of 
Cortez—the old Indian bracelets and nose-rings—the present 
Indian population—El Presidente Bustamente—and were 
most kindly and hospitably entertained by persons whom it 
will ever be matter of regret to me that I shall so seldom 
see again. From Mexico to Perote is one day’s ride over 
an elevated frosty country, partly clad with pine trees, but 
generally consisting of hard clayey plains, sparsely dotted 
with grass, between which tower immense tracts of lofty 
mountains. Perote is a sort of fortification, with a few 
houses in the vicinity; the grand rendezvous of the Banditti. 
From Perote to Jalappa is another day’s travel. The last 
part of the way is down the eastern side of mountains of great 
height?, and covered with shining lava—and in the very track 
of Cortez. Jalappa is a pretty town on the sloping mountain 
side, with a sweet climate—sweet pineapples—coffee plan¬ 
tations—and orange groves. Fourteen days we spent here, 
and then took coach for Vera Cruz. 
This town, founded by Cortez, consists of a cluster of fine 
houses built on a sandy plain at the sea-side. It has a pretty 
good roadstead before it, whieli is piotected from some of the 
winds by a small island half a mile from the shore, on which 
is a fortress. Vera Cruz is a nest of black vomit and black- 
egs—and we left it in a day or two for Tampico, two days* 
sail up the coast. 
