264 S. C. Das— Travels on the Shores of Lake Yamdo-Croft. [No. 3, 
seated on the plinth of the building. Amchi Chhenpo the senior 
physician arrived, and with an appearance of kindness and sym¬ 
pathy, while feeling my pulse said “ mi-tog , mi-tog do not apprehend 
(danger), do not apprehend ; you have come from a great distance, 
I will give you good medicine.” He appeared to be about 70 years 
in age, quite grey, but with a frame still strong and sturdy, of mid¬ 
dle stature, with agreeable features, broad forehead and dignified 
looks. Helped by Tomola, I followed him, and after ascending two 
ladders we arrived at the portico of his residence. The old man, while 
twirling his prayer wheel with the right hand, and frequently taking 
snuff with his left, observed the working of my lungs with attention as 
I walked and climbed up. He gave me two powders to be taken with 
warm water and ordered his cook to serve me with a cup of plain tea. 
Shortly after being refreshed we went to the place of the venerable lady 
Dorje Pha-mo, carrying Lhacham’s letter. Tomola represented my case to 
her through the Amchi Chhenpo, and paid five tankas with a scarf for 
her blessings and protection. Dorje Pha-mo was at this time performing 
some religious service. She received the letter and immediately con¬ 
sulted certain books on divination to examine my fortune. She then 
informed Tomola that she had found my illness to be serious though not 
fatal, in consequence of which, the speedy observance of some efficacious 
religious service would be urgently needed. As I had come from 
Tashi-lhunpo, and with a letter from Lhacham, she would be glad to see 
me later on. She also conveyed to me her leave to freely ask for any¬ 
thing we might require for subsistence during our stay at Samding. 
This assurance was most cheeriug, and enlivened my drooping spirits. 
Tomola went to the evening congregation of the monks leaving me in 
the old physician’s charge. He presented the assembly with enough of 
tea and butter, and also a few pieces of silver, together with a scarf, 
requesting them to pray for my recovery. The monks with one voice 
prayed that the gods might extend their mercy to me, a pilgrim from a 
distant land. Next day Tomola arranged to entertain the monks of 
the monastery who were about eighty, with food. 
The monastery of Samding was built on the narrow neck of land 
which connects the peninsula of Donang with the main land of Tibet. 
It has the holy lake of Yamdo on its west and the accursed Dumo, the 
demon’s lake, on its east. Dorje Pha-mo is venerated for her power to 
suppress the demons which, it is believed, infest the latter. 
The peninsula of Donang and the smaller islands of the great lake 
are frequented by great abundance of water-fowl, wild geese, ducks, and 
storks called Tung-tung , which, on the approach of winter take their 
flight to the milder regions in the Himalayas. 
