270 S. C. Das— Travels on the Shores of Lake Yamdo-Croft. [No. 3, 
solitary appearance. Some pointed rocks interposed here and there. 
This passed, we crossed a small La (hill) and descended towards another 
lake which, with its grassy flat shores and the undulating slopes above 
them, looked very lovely and cheering. The dark blue expanse of 
water, now ruffled by the wind, rose in gentle waves. This was the 
lake Rombu-dsa, which is fed by a few inlets 0 Our way partly lay along 
the dried margin of the lake, which was sandy, and partly in grassy 
paths above the highest water mark. We passed a caravan of yaks and 
donkeys carrying heaps of fuel, consisting of fragrant weeds and some 
wood. After a slow ride of two hours along the margin of this lake 
and a flat valley beyond it we entered into a gorge, from which we had 
a glimpse of the Yamdo lake. Here there are two roads to Khame-do 
one by the side of the great lake, and the other via Melung village 
across the Lonagla Pass. I was told that the latter was rather difficult 
on account of the steepness of the La. I, however, preferred the more 
difficult route, having been informed that I would have to use the 
saltish water of the Yamdo at breakfast if I went by the easier one. 
Half an hour’s ride from this gorge brought us to the village of Melung. 
It was past 11 a.m. when I dismounted at the door of the Gambu’s 
(village headman) house. He received me with much politeness, and 
begged to know how he could serve us. We bought chhang for our 
use and hay for our ponies. I preferred to sit in the yard, which was 
filled with cowdung, the Gambus house being very low and the ceiling 
covered with soot. The Nabo's (host) brother sat near us and had a 
chat with Gopon about the Chinese Ampa’s movements, as TJlag (road 
service) was demanded from them. After breakfast we resumed our 
journey, intent upon reaching the next stage, which according to Gopon 
would be the village of Khame-do. Our guide always sought places for 
halting where he had acquaintances; so that sometimes we halted after 
marching long distances, and sometimes after very short marches. 
Passing a dried-up water-course filled with boulders and broken stones, 
we ascended the steep slopes of Lonagla, also filled with splinters, rocks, 
and gravel. There were evidently no pastures, but still a few yaks and 
sheeps were grazing at this barren place. Gopon picked up some flints, 
and told us that the village derived its name from the flints, as me in 
Tibetan means ‘ fire ’ and lung a “ valley.” Hence Melung is fire or 
flint valley. The La was high, and our ponies were knocked up. From 
the village to the top of the Pass it was about a mile’s distance. The 
La crossed, we entered another spacious and flat valley intersected by 
sparkling brooks. On the slopes of the hills here juniper and other 
fragrant plants grow in abundance. The pastures for yaks and sheep 
were of luxuriant growth. The grass of this pleasant valley, now 
