1898.] S. C. Das —Travels on the Shores of Lake Yamdo-Croft. 
271 
growing yellow, refreshed onr eyes. There was a remarkable contrast 
in the appearance of the opposite sides of Lonagla. Crossing the bends 
of several tiny streams, and passing across the valley, we arrived at 
the village of Kha, where the men and women were engaged in thresh¬ 
ing corn. Heaps of sheaves lay in their yards. We now found our¬ 
selves in an extensive open country, more resembling a plain. As we 
proceeded onward, we caught a glimpse of some jong (castle) standing 
on a distant isolated peak. The valley was filled with numerous 
villages. The villagers, intent on their work, did not care to inquire 
about us, but only now and then stared at us with some curiosity. The 
dogs of this place were very fierce and powerful, and kept barking as 
long as we remained in their sight. Passing many houses on our left, 
and walking a distance of about a quarter of a mile, we entered the 
large village of Khame-do, which stands on the flat slope of the ridge 
extending to the back of the village of Kha. At the entrance of the 
village there were several Mandangs. After inquiring from several 
villagers where we could get accommodation for the night, we were 
pointed out the house of one of the richest residents of the place who 
usually received guests. Several seats made of slabs resembling marble 
were placed in the courts of their residences as well as in the open ground. 
The houses of the villagers were very good looking, large and white¬ 
washed. The barley stalks were stout and long. Gropon told me that 
some of these altar-like seats were made by potters and painted with 
lime. The villagers use them for basking in the sun. At 5 p.m. we 
came to the gate of the rich resident whose guest we were to be. After 
much knocking we succeeded in getting the door opened by an old 
woman, who, after inquiring what we wanted, disappeared. After a 
while the nabo, an old man of nearly seventy, made his appearance 
and showed us his stable, where we could pass the night. It was on 
account of our guide’s foolishness that we failed to get better accommo¬ 
dation here, for he offered only to pay one tanka (six annas ) as house- 
rent, whereas this miserly landlord asked for more. I paid the nela 
(rent) immediately, which pleased the old man, who at my request 
supplied us with two stuffed cushions and a screen. The latter was 
very useful, as at the time a strong wind blew and we had no other 
protection against it, for the stables in Tibet are not like those in India. 
They are stalls open on three sides. When my rugs were spread and 
I took my seat as a respectable man, the nabo drew near and began to 
converse with me about the harvest which the people had just reaped. 
The crop of this year, he said, was damaged by the September frost. 
We bought from him a Phagri (sheep burnt like a pig after slaughter). 
This yielded us very fat mutton. Our host was one of the rich- 
