HIBISCUS PROPAGATION 
Budding and Gra fting. 
* 
Cuttings were taken 4* in length of Hibiscus rosa- 
sinensis to act as stocks, which when rooted were potted 
up and immediately shield budded with different large 
flowered varieties. 
A similar* number of stocks were grafted. 
The results were on the whole disappointing, many of 
the buds or grafts started into growth but subsequently 
died. This ws-s often due to the failure of the stock, 
the roots of>which had rotted shortly after being potted up. 
To insure success the stocks should be struck in a 
sand bed (where they produce a greater number of roots) 
- 
and potted up in a very open compost, great care being taken 
to insure perfect drainage. Budding or grafting should 
not be carried out until it can be seen that the stocks 
are really well established in their pots or in the open 
ground. 
All growths below the bud or graft should be removed. 
Do not remove the wood from the back of the bud as it 
causes it to dry out. 
The following Hibiscus have shown that they can 
readily be grafted - nos. 27, 44, 51, 55, and 63. 
Grafting appears to be more satisfactory than budding. 
&if 
S eed, 
All the numbered varieties of Hibiscus were tried as 
seed parents using H. schizope talus as the pollen parent. 
Most varieties produced a fruit, but not all produced ] 
seed that matured. 
The varieties that produced fertile seed were as 
follows - nos. 10, 18, 20, and 34. Other varieties that 
\ 
produced jhalf grown fruits were a's follows - hos. 3, 1/, 
52, and 70, these v/ould probably set seeds if persevered 
with for a time 
-■WV (0 iAt ■ 
