478 
Journal of a trip in the SiJcTcim Himalaya. 
[No. 5, 
Simpson and Macpherson left long before daybreak with the 
intention of walking into Darjeeling, a distance of about thirty-six 
miles, which they duly accomplished, stopping only to bathe in the 
Rumman. 
Mine host the Llama was very early engaged in his matutinal 
devotions, but stopped short in the midst of his prayers and ringing 
of bells to drink a cup of cocoa, which he seemed to relish with great 
gusto. A young mother, with an infant at the breast and a defici¬ 
ency of milk, came in the morning to the Llama, who by a prolonged 
blowing of short puffs of breath on the naked breasts, was supposed 
to have administered an effectual remedy. Such is the deception 
practised on the minds of these simple people by their spiritual 
guides. 
Kemble and I, not being in a hurry, left Rinchingpoong at 8.30. 
A. M., crossed the Risliee at 10 a. m., and the Rishee cultivation 
where our first camp was at 10.45 a. m., and at 2 p. m, put up in a 
hut by the road side near a very small stream about 1000 feet above 
the Ruttoo. At Rishee we observed a very large flock of Hornbills. 
23 rd November , 1861.—Left our hut at 7 a. m. and reached the 
Rumman at 9.30, crossing by a good substantial bridge just completed 
by the sappers. Reached Goke Guard house at 10.30, halted 15 minutes* 
Reached Little Rungeet river at noon, where we found our ponies in 
waiting. Reached Darjeeling at 2.30 p. M. Observed many clearances 
being made for the cultivation of tea along Tugoor spur, &c. 
The coolies who accompanied us consisted of two Lepchas, two Lim- 
boos and twenty-one Sikkim Bhooteeas, almost all of whom, as well as 
their Sirdar named Tinley, were inhabitants of that portion of Sikkim 
to the west of the Great Rungeet traversed by us. No men could be¬ 
have better than they did, the words “ hurra dikh” and “tukleef,” so 
common in the mouths of Hindustanis and Bengalis never escaped 
theirs, neither did complaints of any kind. Even in sickness, or when 
suffering from extreme cold, or sore legs, or chapped hands and feet, 
there was no grumbling. They were always ready to perform their 
work with a cheerfulness and light-lieartedness quite refreshing to 
witness, after being accustomed to deal with the unmanly and dis¬ 
contented inhabitants of the plains, particularly of Bengal. They 
all readily and gladly partook of any remnants of food we were able 
to spare them, as did all the villagers in whose houses we put up. 
