348 
THE FLORIST. 
before; only, in this case, very much more care is necessary in the 
process of division. The spring season, just before growth recommences, 
is the best time for these operations. 
Another extremely easy mode of propagating Ferns, such as the Hart’s 
tongue, in which the living fleshy bases of the decayed fronds surround 
the older parts of the caudex, has been discovered by Mr. Jackson, of 
Guernsey. Each of these small portions, cut away with a portion of the 
rind of the caudex, and planted like root-cuttings, will, if aided by a 
little warmth, organise buds from the cut edges, and so produce young 
plants. In this way a single old plant may be made to yield progeny 
by dozens .—From the third edition of Moore's Handbook of British 
Ferns, just 'published. 
THE EPACRIS. 
With the object of refreshing the memories of amateurs on the impor¬ 
tance they generally attach to a supply of winter-blooming plants, both 
for cutting and for the decoration of greenhouses and sitting-rooms, I 
send you a few remarks on the culture of the Epacris, thinking that for 
the many purposes that such plants are required there are few to 
surpass the gay colours of the Epacris ; the succession of bloom, too, 
that may be obtained from a good selection is not the least of its 
recommendations. 
The propagation of the Epacris is readily effected, in the month of 
May or June, by selecting shoots of the current year’s growth, stripping 
off the leaves from the lower part, and cutting the bottom evenly. 
They are then inserted half an inch deep, in prepared pots, filled with 
sandy peat over a good drainage. The whole should be firmly pressed, 
and after the cuttings are inserted should receive a gentle watering 
from a fine-rose watering-pot. The pots must then be covered with a 
bell-glass, and placed in a cold frame or pit, where they must be duly 
attended with water and shaded from the sun. In a month or six 
weeks it will be found that the cuttings have become “ callused,” or a 
ring of white cellular tissue will have formed on the margin of the cuts. 
When this is the case the “ strike” may be considered safe, and the 
cuttings may then be removed to a warmer situation, such as the 
shaded part of an intermediate stove; here they will almost immediately 
push out roots, and the tops will begin to elongate. At this stage the 
bell-glasses must be removed, and in a short time the points of the 
cuttings taken off, and if a scarce variety again inserted, and treated as- 
before. In a short time numerous buds will be formed at the axils of 
the leaves ; they should then be potted singly in small pots. By 
keeping them somewhat close, in a cold pit or frame, they will soon 
commence to grow freely, and will continue to do so till late in the 
autumn. In winter little attention will be required, further than to 
keep the plants from the frost, with an occasional watering, and plenty 
of air during mild weather. 
In order to give as long a season as possible the young plants 
should be examined early in February, transferring such as require it 
to larger pots, and placing them in a growing temperature of about 
