1877. ] 
COOL ORCHID CULTURE. 
153 
a wooden trellised slielf, covered an incli or more tliick with shell-gravel, to any 
other material, to stand the plants upon ; the shell-gravel, being salt, keeps clean 
and sweet longer than any other material I am acquainted with. It will also 
hold a considerable amount of moisture, but the trellis being open, it can never 
become unhealthy .or stagnant; and in winter it can be allowed to become as 
dry as it may be desirable to keep it. 
Most of the Cool Orchids, especially the Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, and 
some of the Oypripediums, delight in a very moist atmosphere, as well as copious 
and frequent waterings at the roots; and means must be taken to allow this 
water to get away from the plants readily, for although all the Orchid family 
delight in plenty of water during the growing season, none of them can endure its 
remaining stagnant about their roots. In their natural habitats they are generally 
found growing on trees or on rocks, with perhaps a thin layer of vegetable refuse, 
consisting of decayed leaves and moss, and we cannot do better than imitate 
nature as nearly as we can, when cultivating them in our houses. 
Most of the Cool Orchids may be grown to the greatest perfection in pots, and 
this is the mode I would always prefer, as it has a more tidy appearance than any 
other method. Care must be taken, however, that the pots into which they are 
placed are of the proper size. There is no greater error which we can possibly 
commit in Orchid-growing than over-potting them. If the plants be newly im¬ 
ported, they may be laid out singly on the shelf, and kept a little moist until they 
begin to grow ; or they may be placed in small pots upon broken crocks, which 
should be washed perfectly clean before using them. As soon as they have 
commenced their growth and made new roots, they should have a small quantity 
of very fibrous peat mixed with sphagnum (in the proportion of ^ of the former 
to of the latter, well broken up, and with a sprinkling of silver-sand) placed 
around them to the depth of about 1 inch, and this should be added to according 
to the after-growth of the plants. We will suppose the plants to be in 60-sized 
pots, filled within half an inch of the top with clean crocks. If they go on 
well, they will require a fresh pot the second season. This may be a small-sized 
48, which should be filled about two-thirds full of clean crocks, the plant moved 
carefully from one pot to the other, and made up with the compost before named 
to a little above the rim of the pot. During the growing season the house should 
be kept closed free from cold draughts) and moist by frequently syringing 
amongst the pots, and if the weather be very hot and dry, a layer of sphagnum 
on the shelf among the pots will be found a good medium for retaining 
moisture and keeping the plants cool. This must be removed at the approach 
of winter, the shell-gravel only remaining. The moss should not be put under 
the pots, as that would interfere with the free egress of .the water. 
The potting of established plants would be proceeded with in the same way 
as the second potting above recommended, and care must be taken to keep the 
pots and soil scrupulously clean, and free from conferva, or any other green mat¬ 
ter. The house must also be kept clean and sweet, if successful cultivation is to 
