\ 
224 the florist and pomologist. [Ootobee, 
upwards to tire apex, as a preventive of canker; for although. Melons will grow in 
a swamp, stagnant moisture is often injurious through the last stages of growth. 
For the last twenty years I have grown all my green-fleshed house Melons in 
15-inch pots, plunged two-thirds of their depth in fermenting oak-leaves. The 
pits are divided into sections sufficiently long to hold twelve green in a double 
row in the bed, and six scarlet on the back slate-shelf, which has a pipe running 
under it, as I find scarlets succeed better than greens on kerbs and shelves. A 
path runs near the back wall, and the bed takes two rows of plants with a hot- 
water pipe running under each row—an arrangement which enables me to give a 
strong dry bottom-heat when the fruit is setting and ripening. 
The soil I use is a strong calcareous loam, from an old pasture which grows 
fine oaks. For winter use, it is taken off in September, and stacked in an open 
airy shed; but for summer, I prefer keeping it in the open air. When it is 
chopped down for use, a dash of bone-dust, with a liberal supply of old mortar, if at 
hand, is added; but animal manure is always avoided until after the fruit is set, 
and then it is used in the liquid form. • 
Assuming that the earliest plants, raised singly in 3-inch pots, are ready 
for removal from the nursing-pit by the end of January, that the fermenting 
materials have been sweetened by frequent turnings, and that glass, paint, and 
walls have been thoroughly cleansed, clean, well-crocked pots are placed nearly 
close together over the bottom-heat pipes, the compost in a dry state is thrown in 
quite loose to get warmed through, the fermenting leaves are then introduced, 
and the pit is ready for the reception of the plants, which should neither be 
drawn nor pot-bound. An interval of a day or two is allowed for the soil to 
become warm, when it is firmly rammed; a stout conducting-stick is placed in 
each pot, and the plants are transferred to their fruiting quarters. 
From this time forward, a steady night temperature of 70°, with a rise of 5° 
to 15° by day, and a bottom-heat of 90° is maintained. The plants are never 
shaded. Air is given on all favourable occasions when the temperature ap¬ 
proaches 80°, and the house is closed with plenty of moisture. As growth 
proceeds, all male blossoms are removed, and by the time the plants have filled 
two-thirds of the trellis, side-shoots will be showing plenty of fruit. The 
points of the leaders are then pinched for the first time, strong bottom- 
heat is turned on, syringing is discontinued, and all female blossoms are 
impregnated daily. When from two to four fruits on each plant have attained 
the size of walnuts, the laterals are stopped and thinned-out, to prevent over¬ 
crowding. Light boards are placed under the fruit for support, and feeding with 
liquid manure is commenced and carried on until the Melons have attained their 
full size, when it is gradually reduced. More air is given and syringing is discon¬ 
tinued as the fruit shows signs of ripening. 
By the time the last fruit is cut, a second set of plants should be established 
in G-inch pots for taking the places of the first, always adopting the precaution to 
cleanse the pit before they are introduced. 
Melons grown upon this principle, if copiously syringed and fed, seldom suffer 
