256 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ November, 
effects of the mistaken advice that has been too often given as to their require¬ 
ments. Many who have written on their culture have recommended S. 'purpurea 
to be grown in a cold frame, and S. Drummondii to be kept as hot as if it had 
been a native of Burmah, or to stand them continually in pans of water, or to 
syringe them indiscriminately overhead. That they will merely exist under such 
treatment is no evidence that they like it, but simply that they are tenacious of 
life. When badly grown they are insignificant in the extreme, but when well 
managed there are no more interesting or singularly beautiful plants in existence, 
attaining proportions such as are never seen in their native countries. 
All the species will do well under the same treatment as to heat, soil, 
moisture, and air. They should be kept from the middle of November to the 
end of February in a night temperature of 50°, with a rise of 5° in the day; 
after this, raise the heat 5° day and night, and through the spring and summer 
let it be from 60° to 70° in the night, and from 75° to 85° in the day, according 
to the weather. 
“ The soil should consist of the fibrous portion alone of good peat—all the 
earthy matter sifted out—and chopped sphagnum in equal parts ; to this add 
one-fifth fine broken crocks and sand, each about equal, mixing the whole well 
together. Every year, about the middle of February, not later, whether they 
appear to want it or not, the whole of the soil must be gently shaken from them, 
repotting them in new. If moved later than this, their roots are in motion, and 
it often causes the pitchers to come crippled, or in the case of the tall growers, 
not to pitcher at all. 
“ All the species should be potted at this time except S. Drummondii alba 
and S. Drummondii rubra; these are best shifted about July, after the spring 
growth is quite completed, and before the starting of autumn growth which these 
two kinds make, and at which season they produce their principal lot of pitchers, 
though when strong they will make almost as many in the spring. In potting, fill 
the pots one-third with crocks, and keep the creeping rhizome-like stems just above 
the soil. Every flower-stem they throw up divides the crown in two; in this 
way they increase, but they should not be severed until they have got to a con¬ 
siderable size, as a small bit remains small for a long time. From the time the 
plants commence growing, up to autumn, water them freely every day, and twice a 
week in winter. Never syringe overhead, except in the case of S. purjnirea^ as it 
makes them soft. Never stand them in pans, as it is liable to rot their roots. 
Put them as close as they can be got to the upright glass on the south side of 
the house, or else elevated until they all but touch the roof on the sunny side ; 
let them be in a moist corner, and do not admit air very near them, but they 
like a fair amount in the house, to keep the growth sturdy. They must not 
stand on open trellis-work that will let the air rush up amongst them, but should 
have a broad shelf of close-jointed unplaned boards that will hold moisture, and 
which should be wetted two or three times a day when the plants are growing. Use 
a very thin shade when the sun is upon them. Nip out all the flowers as soon 
as they appear, or they will 'weaken the plants. 
