30 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ February, 
It is very easily managed. The tubers should he kept at rest through 
the winter in the pans in which they have bloomed, and the first batch 
started about the middle of February, selecting those which flowered earliest. 
Shallov r pans are to he filled to within about 2 inches of the top with a mix¬ 
ture of peat, leaf soil, and silver sand; and the tubers shaken out of the dry 
earth, and planted evenly over the surface of the soil, at about an inch apart, 
and covered with similar soil. The pans are to he put into a forcing pit or 
dung bed, ranging from 70° to 75°, water being given cautiously until the 
plants appear above the soil; and when they get about 3 inches high, and 
are strong enough to handle, they are to he transplanted into the blooming 
pans. 
If they are required for exhibition, they look best in large pans ; but 
pots will do equally well. The soil I use is equal parts loam, leaf soil, 
and good rotten manure, with a little silver sand. Good drainage is a very 
essential point in their cultivation. After filling the pots or pans within 
3 inches of the top with the compost, the plants are placed in them. Those 
that are weakly require to be put closer together than the strong-growing 
sorts; about twelve of the strong ones should go to a 12-inch pan, and will 
make a good specimen. After planting they get a gentle watering through 
a fine-rose pot; the pit is kept a little warmer for a few days until they get 
well established, and then air is given on all favourable days. Care must 
be taken to keep up a supply of moisture at the roots, and to shade when 
necessary. After the plants get about 6 or 7 inches high they can be 
removed to the stove, or to a vinery that has been started, if a stove is not 
at command. They will now require staking. The sticks should be slender, 
as nothing looks worse than clumsy sticks; I put one to each plant. When 
they come into bloom, they can be removed to the conservatory, and if duly 
attended to they will continue in bloom for some time. 
By starting a few in March, and others in April, a succession of flower¬ 
ing plants may be kept up. When they have done blooming, they can be 
ripened-off by withholding water gradually. They keep well in a warm dry 
greenhouse. I may add that when they are in bloom, a little weak manure 
water will assist them. J. C. Higgs. 
WALCHEREN CAULIFLOWER. 
[N a previous occasion (see p. 223 of our former series), I briefly stated 
my opinion that there was no better Cauliflower for summer and 
„. autumn use than the Walcheren—if true. I am still of the same 
opinion. I have now a lot of nice useable heads, Lorn plants that 
were planted out the last week in July, from a sowing made the last 
week in May, and they will be useable until the middle of this month 
