1868 . ] 
PLANTING FRUIT TREES. 
37 
weather; and as soon as the flower-buds begin to open, discontinue 
syringing entirely, until the plant is out of bloom. 
If the plant is removed to a temperature of from 45° to 50° as soon as 
the flowers begin to expand, they will he larger and much better coloured 
than the}’ would have been if kept in a higher temperature. When the plant 
begins to show signs of growth, repot; at the same time reduce a little of 
the old hall, though the roots must by no means he injured in this operation. 
The plant will now require but one shift in the year, and but one growth 
in each season must be expected after the plant has been allowed to bloom, 
or its energies will become overtaxed, which will lead to premature decay. 
Somerley Gardens. H. Chilman. 
ON PLANTING FRUIT TREES. 
•f^OCTORS differ, and so do gardeners sometimes. Thus the shallow’ 
planting of fruit trees has been so much belauded, that it may appear 
absurd to write against it; hut having had some experience in deep 
planting, and having seen the best results attending it, I venture to 
say a few words in its favour. 
In the first place, I hold that it is altogether wrong to plant trees on 
or near the surface, when the ground is dug and cropped. The digging for 
the crop cuts the roots, while the crop itself takes all the moisture from the 
soil, and the result is unhealthy trees, full of all kinds of insects. Then, 
without mulching with rotten manure, the roots die under the influence of 
drought in summer, or of cold in winter. Roots naturally grow downwards ; 
and the advice on all sides is, “ Assist Nature as far as possible.” Now, 
by encouraging the roots to the surface of the soil, we are thwarting Nature, 
besides incurring much extra expense every year in labour, all to no good 
purpose. 
Wliat I have done, and do, when I plant fruit trees, is to put their roots 
in their natural position—deep. The first expense is the greatest; but 
it will be the least in the end, and will give more lasting satisfaction. I 
dig a hole, 18 feet in circumference and 84 feet deep, keeping the good 
soil on one side, and wheeling the bad, if there is any, aw’ay. This hole I 
fill with the best soil I can get, and I am particular to have it fresh. I 
prepare a quantity of road scrapings, w T eeds of all kinds, and turf from the 
edgings of road and walks. When a year mixed, this with some burnt soil 
and horse dung added, makes good soil for fruit trees. I fill the holes, 
24 feet deep, with this compost, and beat it hard when filling with a wooden 
“ tup ”—a piece of w’ood 9 inches in diameter at the bottom, 24 feet long, 
tapering to 5 inches at the handle at top. On this soil I plant the trees, 
Pears, Apples, Plums, &c., large or small (as the hole will hold a large 
tree), taking care to spread the roots on all sides, and to fill in amongst and 
