140 
THE FLOKIST AND POMOLOGIST 
[ June, 
purposes for which they are required, putting one bulb in a G-incli pot, 
three in an 8-inch, five in a 9-inch, and fifteen in a 12-incli, and so on. In 
doing this, sufficient space must be left between the bulbs to allow room 
for the young growths, which can at this time be seen, as well as the 
direction they are taking. Generally each bulb makes two growths, one 
on each side. Their roots are annual, therefore any old ones that may be 
left adhering to the bulbs must be cut away. 
The compost I find to suit these Calantlies is one-lialf turfy loam cut 
from an old pasture 2 inches deep, and used before the fibre is destroyed 
by long keeping (it is well to half-char this, to destroy all vegetable as 
well as insect life merely), one-fourth old dry cow dung, and one-fourtli 
good fibry peat, adding a few handfuls of charcoal of the size of walnuts. 
These ingredients should be mixed well together, and be used in a mode¬ 
rately dry state. In potting, reject the finer portions. Let the pots be 
perfectly clean and dry, as well as the crocks. Make the drainage as perfect 
as possible, by first laying a hollow crock over the hole, the hollow side 
downwards, and placing smaller crocks over this to the depth of 2 inches 
for the smaller and 8 inches or more for the larger pots. Upon this 
drainage lay a little moss—a very thin layer, or it will defeat the end in 
view, and upon this fill in the compost, the coarser portion at the bottom. 
Press it down moderately, and then fill in as much compost as the pot will 
hold, and upon this place the bulbs, with a little silver sand under each, 
the base resting on the soil—not sinking in it—and on a level with the pot 
rim. Thrust a small stick into the soil on each side of the bulb, but an 
inch higher, close to it, but not in the way of the young growth. Tie 
these sticks together above the bulbs, and this will keep them firm on the 
soil until they have made roots, when the sticks may be taken away. 
When the potting is completed, place the plants in a vinery or plant 
stove, well exposed to the light and not too far from the glass, in a mini¬ 
mum heat of 55° to 60°, maximum 70° to 75°, with a moist atmosphere. 
They must have but little water until they commence to unfold their 
foliage, when, from that time until they have completed their growth and 
their leaves decay in the autumn, they will require water in abundance. 
The water should always be about the same temperature as the house they 
are growing in; this is of the greatest importance, as to water any plant 
growing in a warm house with cold water is, to say the least of it, bad 
practice. By the middle of July they will have filled their pots with 
hungry healthy roots, and from this stage onwards I give them very weak 
and clear manure water about once a-week, according to the brightness or 
dulness of the weather; if bright clear weather they will require more, if 
dull less of this stimulant. It is safe practice to give four or five waterings 
with clear water to one of manure water. Close attention to watering, avoid- 
