260 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ November, 
year, reduces this loss to a minimum, and thereby affords to the tree more 
time to right itself, by throwing out fresh and active rootlets and root- 
fibrils. This is but an extended application of the principle on which we go 
to work in striking a cutting of any valued or tender plant. With the aid of 
a hand-glass or other simple contrivance, we insure it such an amount of 
atmospheric moisture as will prevent an excessive tax upon its energies, by 
avoiding the deprivation of the moisture which it contains, and shutting it 
up, as it were, in its own cells. This, however, only until roots are formed, 
when the tax occasioned by the action of the outer air becomes a necessity 
to its existence, by drawing off superabundant moisture. 
Let us for a moment contrast this with the system of spring planting. 
This often takes place in February, when its advocates say that the warmth 
of approaching spring already causes the buds to enlarge, and the sap to 
flow; and that when trees are removed in such a state, roots are readily 
formed in conjunction therewith, and the tree suffers less than at any other 
time. This appears feasible enough, and indeed there is every reason to 
suppose is so, whilst the tree remains with its roots intact in their winter 
home ; but sever these roots in twain, as will have to he done more or less, 
and that violently in the process of removal—disturb this beautiful reciprocity 
of action between the parts, and will a renewal of growth then take place 
with a tithe of the vigour which would have been manifest had the tree not 
been transplanted? It is not likely that it should, though if a moist period 
should attend or follow the planting, its chances will be all the better; much 
will, however, depend upon the simple fact whether or no moist weather 
follows—weather which will go far to fully establish trees planted in the 
autumn. But should a dry period—more to be anticipated—succeed late 
planting, followed by penetrating harsh March winds, the chances of suc¬ 
cess will be greatly lessened, and still more so should the spring or summer 
prove dry and hot. This is why I advocate autumn planting. 
Trees in process of removal should have every small root, or fibril pre¬ 
served with the utmost care. Larger roots will sometimes need shortening 
to a reasonable length. As a rule, trees form a network of roots, large or 
small, extending about as far from the bole as the overhanging branches, 
and there in a general way, in removing reasonable-sized trees, the outer 
trench should be started. The place prepared for the reception of the tree 
should extend as far as possible beyond the radius to which the actual 
roots are likely to reach. This will afford the young roots a better oppor¬ 
tunity to grow away freely when a start has once been made. Sufficient 
water should always be given after planting to thoroughly soak the fresh- 
moved soil throughout, that it may settle down uniformly throughout, so as 
to resist the action of the wind. 
Digswell. 
William Earley. 
