24 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
tions in a moderate temperature—do not at¬ 
tempt to push them too fast into growth, and 
do not allow them by any means to receive any 
sudden checks. Strawberries .—Put a batch of 
plants into the Peach-house or vinery; place 
them on a shelf near the glass, where they can 
have plenty of light and air. When the fruit is 
set they should be removed to a warmer place. 
To keep up a succession, a fresh supply of 
plants must be introduced every fortnight. 
The temperature should at first be low, and 
be raised gradually. Plants in flower should 
have all the air possible, otherwise they go 
blind. Fumigate for green fly. Vinery .— 
Vines in action require careful attention; those 
in bloom need much care. A dry night tem¬ 
perature of 65° for Hamburghs, and 70° for 
Muscats, will make them set well. With 
sun heat it might rise 10° or 15° more. If 
the roots are in a border outside, not only 
must the frost be kept from them, but a 
steady heat of about 70° must be kept up, if 
not from hot-water pipes below, from ferment¬ 
ing materials from above. Inside borders 
should be well watered. Tie down shoots, 
stop laterals, and thin directly the berries are 
formed. Begin Vines just started with a 
moist genial atmosphere of 45° artificial heat, 
and increase 10° or 15° in a month, always 
allowing a rise of 10° or 15° by sun heat. 
Forcing Hardy Shrubs .—A mild steady bottom 
heat, a temperature of from 50° to 60°, with a 
rise of 10° or 15° by sun heat, and syringing 
morning and evening with warm water, will 
insure success here. As soon as the plants 
in bloom are removed to the conservatory and 
show-house, fill up with fresh plants. In¬ 
troduce Kalmias, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, 
Deutzias, Lilacs, and Roses. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Drain, trench, manure, and dig vacant 
ground when the weather permits. Where not 
done already, throw up into rough ridges vacant 
ground. Plant Box-edging. In frosty weather 
push forward all work connected with the 
wheelbarrow. Place heaps of manure on spots 
where it can be made available for dressing 
those quarters that are soon to become vacant. 
Prepare composts and manures; also, Pea 
sticks and other sticks requisite for kitchen- 
garden purposes. Prepare labels for naming 
vegetables. There are innumerable little 
jobs that may be done under cover in severe 
weather that are as necessary as some of 
apparently greater importance. Protect Cauli¬ 
flower plants, Lettuce, and Parsley in frosty 
weather. Artichokes, if not already done, 
should have a good mulching of half-rotten 
leaves. Before severe weather take up some 
Turnips ; top and house them. Take up some 
Horseradish and house it. Broccoli showing 
flower take up with a ball, and put in a shed or 
other place of shelter. Sow a crop of early 
Peas and Broad Beans on a warm sheltered 
border. Sow also some Radishes and Horn 
Carrot, and cover with litter in frosty weather. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit .—If the weather be severe see 
that the wood of Fig trees is well wrapped up 
with straw or fern. If open, all kinds of 
hardy fruit trees may be planted. Pruning 
may also be proceeded with in open weather. 
Espaliers also may be tied, and wall trees 
nailed. Orchard-house .—All fruit trees in 
pots and tubs intended for the house should 
be got in without any loss of time. Put a good 
covering of dry leaves, straw, or fern round 
the pots and tubs, to keep the frost from the 
roots in severe weather. In open weather, 
give all the air possible. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
At this season of the year keep lawns, 
walks, &c., as clean and orderly as possible. 
Tender Roses and other tender plants should 
be protected from frost. Protect bulbs, &c. 
Cold Frames .—In mild weather give all the 
air possible, pulling off the lights on dry and 
sunny days. But little, if any, water, will be 
required. Be always prepared to protect from 
frost, by coverings of some description, by 
night. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—These should not be excited to 
grow before February, when they may be 
watered more freely—at present they should 
have very little water. The old foliage will 
continue gradually to decay, and should be re¬ 
moved as fast as the leaves turn yellow. Give 
them a slight protection during severe frost. 
Carnations and Ficotees .—Cold will not injure 
these plants if they have been kept dry. 
Dahlias .—Carefully examine the roots, par¬ 
ticularly those from the ground, to see they 
are not decaying at the crown. If they 
appear to be rotting downwards, put them 
to work in heat, or they may be entirely lost. 
Pot roots keep sound longer than those from 
the open ground, particu’arly if the latter 
have been grown freely, in rich soil, causing 
them to have large hollow stems. They make 
excellent strong early plants by starting 
them in gentle heat early in April. Holly¬ 
hocks .—Roots potted from the ground in 
autumn, for the purpose of producing cuttings, 
may be excited with a little heat; it should, 
however, be very gentle at first. "When they 
have pushed shoots to about 3 inches long- 
cut them off, similar to the method adopted 
in propagating the Dahlia. The cuttings 
should be put into thumb-pots, using sandy 
soil, and place in mild bottom heat. The plants 
struck now will flower well in September. 
[ Seed sown in heat and the plants grown 
under glass till late in May, will flower in the 
autumn. Pansies .—If the weather should be 
mild and open towards the end of the month, 
those for blooming in pots should be repotted. 
For this purpose, keep the soil dry and in 
readiness. Finks .—But little will have to bo 
done this month. If the frost should loosen 
the plants, press them firmly in the ground 
after a thaw. 
