48 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
shoots; this, together with the pea-rods, 
protects them from the frost—indeed, it is 
rarely they ever get injured by the. frost, as 
we always go over them daily in frosty 
weather, and draw a little soil over any we 
see peeping through. By this simple plan 
we always get Potatoes out of doors early in 
June—a week or so earlier or later according 
to the season. The Potatoes and Peas come 
off about the same time; and we generally 
plant this border afterwards with Cauliflower 
and Walcheren Broccoli, at three different 
times—one part of it about the 1st of July, 
another about the 15th, and the remaining 
part about the 30th of July; these come into 
use during October, November, and December. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Finish pruning Gooseberry and Currant 
bushes as soon as possible. Cut back the 
tops of Raspberry canes, and dig or fork over 
the soil. In open weather, prune and nail 
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and 
Cherries. Prune Pears and Apples, and if 
any of the trees are crowded with spurs, thin 
them out pretty freely—those that are left 
will have a better chance, the fruit will be 
finer, and you will be more likely to have a 
crop of fruit another season. Fruit trees of 
all kinds may still be planted, but the sooner 
it is done the better; but before planting, see 
that the borders are thoroughly drained, for 
unless they are, it is labour in vain to plant. 
Make good wide holes, and spread the roots 
out well in planting—afterwards mulch them. 
Orchard-house .—In severe frosty weather pro¬ 
tect the roots. If towards the end of the 
month the weather be mild, see if any of the 
trees are very dry at root; if so, give them 
some water. Give all the air possible on 
mild days. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger), is 
one of the best things we have for winter 
flowering. In severe weather put some cover¬ 
ing over the plants to protect the flowers. 
Plant Anemones and Ranunculuses. All al¬ 
terations intended to be made should be done 
as soon as possible, so as not to interfere with 
planting when the season arrives. Prune 
hardy kinds of Roses. Attend to Rock plants; 
some of them are very pretty in spring. Cold 
Frame .—The principal thing to be attended 
to here is to keep out frost and damp, and to 
give all the air possible on fine days. If the 
weather be frosty, cover up well, and water 
as little as possible, and when obliged, do it 
in the forenoon. If you want cuttings of any 
things, they ought to be put into heat to grow. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—The mildness of the winter has 
excited these plants to commence growing at 
an unusually early period. They will now 
require water, which they should have more 
freely as the season advances. As soon as the 
ball of earth has been penetrated to the bot¬ 
tom with water, top-dress the pots with rich 
soil. Remove the plants to a south aspect. 
As they will now have made considerable 
growth, protect the plants during cold frosty 
nights, and pinch off premature blooms. Car¬ 
nations and Ficotees .—After such mild and 
moist weather, care must be taken that these 
plants do not get too much water for a time, 
or they will start into premature growth. 
Throwing up their blooming-shoots early, and 
during the time they are in small pots, is 
much against a good or large bloom. The 
plants will now require going over to be 
cleaned of all dead foliage. As they make 
their growth, the experienced grower will not 
need to be reminded of the importance of keep¬ 
ing the sparrows from destroying the young 
shoots. Dahlias .—Many of the new kinds 
have been at work for some time, but now is 
the proper season for the general stock to be 
put to work. A large number of plants can 
be made from roots started now, with the ad¬ 
vantage of the plants not being liable to be¬ 
come stunted with being kept a long time 
before they can be planted out. The shoots 
taken off in the ordinary manner strike readily 
in a moist, but not too moist,' heat. They 
succeed best in pits or frames, the heat being 
moderate at first, and increased when the cut¬ 
tings became eallused. Hollyhocks .—Repot 
cuttings, as soon as they are rooted, into three 
or four-inch pots, using rather rich soil. Cut¬ 
tings may still be put in ; any struck during 
February will flower well if properly managed. 
Autumn-struck cuttings should now be re¬ 
potted, or they are liable to become pot-bound 
before the time arrives for planting them out. 
Fine spikes of bloom cannot be expected, if 
the plants are prematurely driven into flower, 
which is likely to be the case if they are 
allowed to become pot-bound. Seedlings 
should be pricked off into small thumb-pots, 
one in each, as soon as they show their second 
leaves. Fansies .—Now is the time for a gene¬ 
ral repotting of all that are intended to be 
bloomed in pots. The size of the pot to be 
used depends on the strength and vigour of 
the plant. If for exhibiting in pots, the rules 
for the guidance of exhibitions must be at¬ 
tended to; eight-inch pots are the size gene¬ 
rally used ; six-inch, however, are quite large 
enough for many varieties. Towards the end 
of the month top-dress beds with rich soil; 
if half-rotten manure, so much the better. 
Finks .—When the soil is sufficiently dry, 
stirring it on the surface will be a great ad¬ 
vantage, pressing it firmly round any plants 
loosened by the frost at the same time. Top- 
dress similar to that recommended for the 
Pansies, either late in February or early in 
March. Tulips .—These are appearing above 
the soil. They will take no harm if tolerably 
dry. If severe frost sets in after wet, they 
should be protected by a slight covering. If 
the bed is well drained, there is not much to 
fear from cold. 
