72 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
No time should be lost in seeing to the 
protection of wall trees. Mats, canvass, or 
calico makes a good covering. They should 
he so contrived as to he put up or taken down 
at pleasure. They should he let down every 
day, except in severe frosty weather, cold 
cutting winds, and snowstorms, as trees in 
flower require all the light and air they can 
get. The branches of Spruce Fir make an 
excellent covering; but they should he put 
on very carefully, so as not to prevent the 
sun and air getting to the blossoms. This is 
easily managed by getting branches not very 
full of foliage and thinning out some of the 
side shoots. They should he put on so as to 
stand out clear 2 to 4 inches from the blossom. 
This will break the frost and yet admit suffi¬ 
cient light and air to the blossom. They 
should not he put on until the flower-buds 
are beginning to open. If put on then they 
will hold green and good until the fruit is 
set, by which the foliage of the boughs will 
begin to wither and drop. We know of no 
better protection for fruit trees than this is, 
when properly put on. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Look over the stock of plants, and see if 
you are likely to fall short of anything at 
bedding-out time. If you are, and can take 
off a few cuttings, do so without delay and 
put into heat. They will soon strike root; 
and, if potted-off and pushed on, will be ready 
at bedding time. Cupheas, Lobelias, Ver¬ 
benas, Petunias, and similar plants may still 
be propagated. Bring forward creepers and 
annuals, such as Phlox Drummondi, for 
planting out when the season arrives. If the 
soil in any of the beds requires replacing with 
fresh, it should be done without any loss of 
time. Also any turf to be laid should be 
finished as soon as possible. Plant and cut 
Box edgings. Turn gravel on walks. Cold 
Frames. —Adi bedding and other plants that 
have been wintered in their cutting-pans or 
boxes should be potted-off without delay. 
When potted, place them in a frame by them¬ 
selves, or at one end of the frame, so that they 
can be kept rather close for a few days until 
they begin to get established, when more air 
should be given to them. Except on frosty 
or wet days remove the lights daily off of 
established plants in pots. Mignonette, 
Stocks, and Violets should have plenty of air. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—The powdered foliage of this 
early spring flower has already expanded, 
which, without being as attractive, is almost 
as interesting as the flower. Cover the glass 
carefully at night in frosty weather, the young 
growth being tender, and the flower-buds will 
be developing. If the top-dressing has been 
done as recommended last month, watering 
and giving air will be the principal things to 
attend to for some time to come. As aphides 
generally appear with the young growth, the 
plants should be subjected to one or two good 
smokings with tobacco or tobacco paper. 
Carnations and Ficotees. —The soil for blooming 
these plants in having been sweetened by the 
frost and frequent turnings, and the pots 
having been cleaned, potting may be com¬ 
menced with the first fine weather. We have 
so often described how this is most effectually 
performed, that it is only necessary to remind 
our readers that now is the time for the opera¬ 
tion of potting them into their blooming pots, 
for particulars of which we refer them to 
previous volumes. It is yet too early for 
planting into beds or borders. Dahlias .— 
March is the month for propagating the 
Dahlia. It is necessary, however, that the 
roots should be at work at least a month 
before, to insure a plentiful supply of cuttings 
during this month. If a few strong plants 
only are required the roots may now be started 
in a vinery, and divided when the shoots have 
grown a few inches long. Pot roots may also 
be put to work towards the end of the month. 
These 'make one or two good plants each 
without trouble if properly managed. Many 
prefer them to spring-struck plants. Soft- 
eyed or thin flowers produce finer bloom from 
large roots divided or pot roots ; but very full 
varieties, or such as are liable to produce 
green centres, bring the most perfect flowers 
from plants grown from cuttings. The end 
of the month sow seed. Hollyhocks. —As it is 
a month before these can be planted out with 
advantage, repot any that are getting pot- 
bound. Transplant seedlings, and continue 
to put in cuttings for late bloom. Fansies .— 
Plant out such as have been wintered in pots. 
Top-dress autumn-planted beds, and plant 
out any late-sown seedlings that have been 
wintered in pans. Pinks. —After stirring the 
surface of the soil top-dress the beds with 
good rich stuff, choosing an opportunity when 
the beds are dry. Any vacancies caused by 
the winter should now be filled up, either by 
those wintered in store-pots for the purpose, 
or from stock-beds. If the soil has been much 
loosened by the action of the frost, press it 
firmly round the plants when dry, but not 
before. Roses .—Do not allow the very pre¬ 
mature state of the Boses to induce the com¬ 
mencement of pruning, as this can only tend 
to increase—what we fear a late frost will 
constitute—the evil. But should a reference 
to former calendars show directions for partial 
pruning— i. e., the cutting-out superabundant 
shoots—we now say, Delay it altogether till 
the end of the month at the earliest. Planting. 
—Unless this is concluded at once, all hope 
of bloom this year must be abandoned. In 
pots, too, the plants are very forward, and our 
old enemies, green fly and maggots, are not 
backward. “(Death or victory ” must be the 
motto. Tulips. —As we must yet expect 
frosty nights, keep the wet from getting into 
the hearts of the plants. 
