120 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
season, a most extraordinary crop ; they have 
set in clusters of ten, fifteen, and twenty in a 
cluster. Thinning is indispensable, and it 
must he done with no sparing hand. The 
young leaves of Apricot trees are often de¬ 
voured by little caterpillars; their presence is 
plainly indicated by the curling-up of the 
leaves ; the only way to get rid of the m and 
to save the trees from serious injury (for they 
make sad havoc when not looked after), is to 
unfold the leaves and kill them. This is a 
rather tedious work; but as it is the only 
effectual way of getting rid of the caterpillars, 
and as the present and future well-being of 
the trees is by this means secured, the labour 
is well bestowed. Peaches and Nectarines 
appear to be setting pretty well: the trees 
will require disbudding, but do not remove 
too many at one time, but go over the trees 
often. In disbudding Peach and Nectarine 
trees, the general rule is to divest the bearing 
wood of the present year of all shoots, except 
the terminal one of those issuing near the 
bases; when there is no fruit, the buds should 
be rubbed clean off; but where there is fruit 
at the base of the buds, instead of rubbing the 
buds clean off, merely pinch off the point be¬ 
tween your finger and thumb nail, leaving 
two or three of the leaves nearest the base. 
Keep a watchful eye to aphis; as soon as you 
perceive any, give the trees a syringing of 
weak tobacco water, which will soon stop them. 
Orchard-house .—Water freely, and occasion¬ 
ally with liquid manure. Give air freely in 
fine weather. Thin the fruit, and go over the 
trees frequently to disbud and stop shoots. 
"When fruit is set, syringe freely. Keep down 
insects. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
This is a busy month here. We presume 
the arrangement has long since been deter¬ 
mined on; if so, and the weather be favour¬ 
able, you may begin to “ bed out” after the 
middle of the month, planting first, of course, 
such things as have been well hardened off, 
and the more tender plants towards the end 
of the month; a nice showery day after all 
are planted would save a deal of trouble; if 
the weather sets in dry you will be obliged to 
water. Propagate by slips double Wallflowers, 
and divide the roots of Violets and similar 
plants. Boll and mow the grass weekly: 
roll the walks frequently, and keep every place 
neat and tidy. Roses .—In reply to inquiries 
as to the reason of our advocating late pruning 
or rather shortening the branches, it is prin¬ 
cipally to guard as much as possible against 
the destruction by weather or accident of the 
outer bud, to which we have so frequently 
directed the shoots to be cut back. The green 
fly and rose maggot will soon commence their 
destructive work; and we again urge, as we 
have in former Calendars, to attack the enemy 
ere they have time to entrench themselves, or 
they will sap most effectually all hopes of an 
early bloom, Buds that are pushing in a 
direction that will interfere with the shape of 
the plants, or are growing too thickly in the 
centre, should be removed. Cold Frames .— 
Leave air all night when plants are hardening- 
off ; and in very mild weather the lights may 
be left quite off all night. Pot off spring-struck 
cuttings, also seedlings of all kinds; propagate 
all desirable plants. Pleasure Grounds. —Boll 
and mow the grass every ten days or a fort¬ 
night ; clean and roll walks. Attend to newly- 
planted trees and shrubs. If very bright weather 
prevails, valuable specimens recently planted 
should be shaded to check evaporation; they 
should also be well watered, and should be 
syringed night and morning until they are 
considered safe. • 
florists’ flow t ers. 
Auriculas. —The cooler the situation the 
plants are placed in at the present time, the 
longer they remain in flower. As soon as the 
blooms begin fading, remove the plants to a 
more exposed yet cool situation; a raised bed 
is best suited to stand them on, with lights 
placed over them during wet weather. Give 
the plants a good fumigating before they are 
taken from the pits or frames to be stood out 
of doors. Carnations and Picotees. —There will 
be but little to do for the next three weeks 
with these plants, excepting watering in dry 
weather. Choose a mild day for this. To¬ 
wards the end of the month stake them per¬ 
manently. Keep the plants trimmed of all 
dead foliage, and clear of aphides. Dahlias .— 
Bepotting and growing on the young plants 
in cold frames is of more importance than 
early planting. Planting may be commenced 
towards the end of the month. "We do not 
plant ourselves before the first week in June. 
See that the points of the young plants are 
not infested with green fly when planting 
time arrives. Fumigate before they leave the 
pits, if this troublesome insect is visible, as it 
will not be easy to get them under after the 
plants are in the ground. Seedlings will re¬ 
quire considerable care, watering, &c., the first 
few weeks after being planted. Hollyhoclcs. 
—Late-struck plants may now be planted to 
bloom with the Dahlias in September ; water¬ 
ing and staking are all that is required to be 
done during the present month. Pansies .— 
Water the beds freely to prolong the blooms 
in good character. Those in pots should now 
be stood in a cool situation, sheltering the 
plants in bad weather only; on all other oc • 
casions keep them quite open. Cuttings strike 
readily if put in now ; the small side shoots 
should be chosen for this purpose. Pinlcs .— 
If dry weather continues, water freely, using 
weak liquid'manure about twice a-week. The 
shoots should be thinned if large flowers are 
required for exhibition. Tulips. —On a mild 
day water between the plants, so as not to 
wet the foliage; the morning is the best time. 
Shade with care, to protect the expanding- 
bloom without drawing the plants. 
