168 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The sowings of the chief crops of the 
various kinds of vegetables being now over, 
the principal work will be to attend to thin¬ 
ning in proper time, to make good all vacan¬ 
cies, to guard against their suffering either 
from insects or drought, and to keep con¬ 
stantly hoeing among them, in order to pro¬ 
mote a healthy and luxuriant growth. Plant 
out immediately the principal breadth of 
Celery in well-manured trenches; also Leeks. 
Plant every vacant space with Broccolis of 
sorts, Brussels Sprouts, Borecole, Savoys, &c. 
Plant Lettuce and Endive. Sow a good 
breadth of Turnips; sow Endive, Lettuce and 
Radishes; sow Cabbages. Plant a good 
breadth of Cauliflower now—they will come 
during the autumn. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Orchard-house .—Attend carefully to water¬ 
ing. Syringe freely, and give abundance of 
air. Stop and thin shoots, and do not retain 
one more than is necessary. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The frequent showers of rain we have lately 
had will have obviated the necessity of much 
watering; this will have saved much labour, 
which ought to be usefully and profitably 
employed otherwise. Pegging-down and 
tying-up will demand considerable attention. 
Keep everything as neat and trim as possible. 
Hoses, r—Where our previous directions re¬ 
specting searching for maggots and destroying 
them have been neglected, the large number 
of the earliest flowers rendered imperfect is 
now apparent, and will, we trust, be a lesson 
for the future. We never remember, either, 
so much destruction being committed by the 
maggot, which bores the young shoots. Where 
the end of them are seen to flag, let them be 
cut off below the perforated part and trodden 
under foot. If fine blooms are required, the 
buds must be thinned, and copious doses of 
liquid manure freely administered. When 
the sun is powerful, shading will be requisite. 
This may be easily done by means of hoops 
of split hazel or willow, with cross pieces to 
form a dome, being covered with thin calico 
or paper, and fixed in a couple of cleft sticks, 
the flowers being tied so as to prevent rubbing. 
In pots, where flowers are over, they should 
be cut back, plunged in ashes, liberally top- 
dressed with decayed manure, and watered as 
frequently as dry weather may render neces¬ 
sary. 
florists’ flowers. 
Carnations and Picotees .—There has been 
too much rain for these plants, but the grower 
for exhibition will not be so likely to be teased 
with thrips as a hot dry season produces. 
Keep the plants neatly and well tied up. 
Those that require large blooms must now at¬ 
tend to disbudding, leaving one, two, or three, 
according to the strength of the plant and the 
known character of the flower, some varieties 
being much larger and more full of petals 
than others. Dahlias .—These must be coaxed 
to grow as fast as possible, to be in time for 
the early exhibitions of this flower. If dry 
weather, watering overhead early in the even¬ 
ing, stirring the soil about the plants, keeping 
down insects, and securely tying the plants, 
are the ordinary methods adopted to secure 
this end. If slugs are troublesome, fresh 
lime strewed about the soil as well as over 
the plants, when they are out, either late in 
the evening or early in the morning, will be 
effectual, if followed up for a short time. If 
earwigs destroy the points of the plants, we 
have a remedy in Edwards’s trap. A little 
short manure spread round the plant as 
mulching is very beneficial. This should be 
done about the middle of the month, as it 
can be done more easily before the side stakes 
have been used to tie the plant to. Hollyhocks. 
—Side shoots should be taken off. This 
answers two purposes: they make cuttings 
which produce early plants for next season, 
and it strengthens the main shoot, thereby 
producing larger blossoms. The Hollyhock, 
like the Dahlia, will be strengthened by 
mulching. Pansies .—Seed should be gathered 
for a short time longer, but not from flowers 
that have become small and out of colour 
from the plant having become exhausted. 
Continue to propagate by putting in cuttings 
that are young and healthy. Plant out in 
sandy soil the young stock, as soon as rooted. 
Pelargoniums .—We are fast approaching the 
general cutting down. Before doing this the 
plants should be gradually dried off. It is 
better, both for the young wood intended for 
cuttings, as well as for the old stool. Seed 
should be sown as soon as ripe enough. There 
have been some fine new things shown this 
season by the principal raisers. Foster, 
Hoyle, Beck, and Turner have each exhibited 
some very promising seedlings. There ap¬ 
pears to be a never-dying interest in this 
most showy and most interesting greenhouse 
plant. Nothing, certainly, can exceed the 
beauty of a well-grown house of Pelargo¬ 
niums. Fancy varieties may be cut down 
also, and used generally pretty much like the 
large-flowered kinds. The cuttings, when 
put in, should be longer, or they are liable to 
dry up. They will break up at the bottom—- 
the plants will not be long. Pinks .—The 
bloom in the south will be drawing to a 
close; the late varieties are, however, good 
yet, as well as in colder districts. The bloom 
has been very fine. The showers experienced 
during May and the early part of June have 
caused them to lace beautifully. Cardinal, 
New Criterion, Sovereign, Purity, Mrs. Nor¬ 
man, Adonis, Mrs. Stevens, Mr. Stubbs, Koh- 
i-noor, Criterion, Burnette, James Hogg, have 
been very finely exhibited. Finish putting in 
cuttings with all dispatch, in the ordinary 
manner, under small glasses with a little 
bottom heat. 
