AUGUST. 
181 
davensis and hope to have an improved strain at the expense of flowering a 
little later. I have not found the disease so prevalent last year amongst Gla¬ 
diolus appearing this year either amongst my seedlings or the named sorts. It 
may, therefore, arise from defects in their cultivation, or in particular seasons. 
Now, that it is found that the Gladiolus seeds so freely, and that it only takes 
two or three years to see them in flower, there is a chance of having immense 
quantities of these gorgeous plants in masses on pleasure grounds in the 
autumn. The soil of Rhododendron-beds just suits them, and I am convinced 
-when mixed with Hollyhocks, Dahlias, and Phloxes an effect may he produced 
in backgrounds that has never yet been seen or even imagined. 
Wm. Tillery. 
THE PROPAGATION OF “BEDDING” PLANTS. 
Having in the last Number given some directions for the propagation of 
Geraniums, I now follow up the subject by a few remarks on the propagation of 
Verbenas, Petunias, Lobelias, Pentstemons, Cupheas, Calceolarias, &c. With, 
perhaps, the exception of Calceolarias, the greater part of these are in general 
struck in heat by gardeners; and where there is plenty of pit room to 
gradually prepare them for the winter after they are struck, and houses to keep 
them in afterwards, this is a very good plan; but when they are to be kept 
through the whole winter in pits or frames, plants struck in heat are much 
more liable to damp-off than plants struck without any heat. This class of 
“bedding” plants, excepting Calceolarias, are not so much employed in 
decorating the parterre as it some few years since was, owing to the great 
improvement in “ bedding” Geraniums, and their extensive use. Still many 
of them are very useful, and we cannot yet do without them. 
Cuttings of all these, except Calceolarias, may be put in any time from the 
beginning of the present month till the middle of September. They should 
be prepared in the usual way, by taking the two bottom leaves off, and cutting 
them at the joint, and they may be put into pots, pans, boxes, or anything 
that will hold about 3 inches deep of light sandy soil. When the cuttings are 
put in they should be watered with a fine rose, and should then be placed in a 
pit or frame, and not too far from the glass. If the pit or frame has a north 
aspect so much the better, and if near a north wall no shading will be required. 
All the attention that will be needed is to water as the cuttings may require 
it, to put the lights on during the day, giving no more air than is absolutely 
necessary, and taking the lights off every evening that the cuttings may be 
moistened with the genial and refreshing dews, which, in general, are deposited 
during the night at this season of the year. Attention to the taking off the 
lights every evening is of the greatest importance. 
As soon as the cuttings will bear full exposure to the atmosphere during 
the day without flagging, the lights should remain off during the day as well 
as during the night. The cuttings will then require no further attention than 
watering when necessary. Cuttings treated in this way will be a little longer 
in striking than cuttings in heat; but, long before the autumn, they will have 
made abundance of roots, and will be stiff firm plants, in a good condition to 
stand over the winter. They may remain in these pits or frames with the 
lights off, and exposed to the rains until the end of October, except in case a 
severe frost should set in. They should not remain after this time in a north 
aspect; the frames should be removed to a warm sheltered situation, and be 
fully exposed to the sun. The whole of the cutting pots should then be placed 
in them. After this they will require considerable attention, especially in 
giving an abundance of air at every favourable opportunity, in watering only 
