182 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
when necessary, and in covering np well during frosty weather. By these 
means they may be safely wintered without losing many of them. In March 
the whole should be potted-off and placed in pits or frames under glass, if there 
be plenty of such accommodation; if not, they will do nearly as well (being 
inured to a low temperature), if planted in a lightish, rather sandy soil, in a 
turf pit, over which mats or canvass may be placed during bad weather and at 
nights. Though they may not appear to make much progress for some time 
at top in a rude contrivance of this description, they will soon begin to root 
freely into the fresh soil; and as the weather gets warmer they will begin to 
grow at top, and by the time for 4 ‘ bedding” out arrives they will be grand 
stuff. They can then be easily removed with large balls to the flower garden 
without receiving the least check. 
Calceolarias may be struck in this way; but as they do better by being put 
in rather later, and as they are more largely grown for beds and borders than 
some of the other things, it is best to keep them in pits or frames by them¬ 
selves. Cuttings of Calceolarias do best if put in any time during October, 
before they are the least injured by the frost. Instead of putting the cuttings 
in pans or boxes (although they do well this way), it is better to prepare a 
frame or frames specially for them. Some people make a slight hotbed of 
fermenting material, and on it place the frames, putting a few inches of sandy 
soil in for the cuttings ; but I prefer placing the frames on the common soil of 
the garden, or the hard ground, in a convenient sheltered situation, where they 
are exposed to the south; then putting about 4 inches deep of soil on the 
ground, and on this about one inch deep of river or silver sand. In this I 
insert the cuttings about 3 inches apart, and after all are got in I give them a 
gentle watering from a fine rose. 
The lights should be taken off at nights until there is danger to be appre¬ 
hended from frost, that the cuttings may have the benefit of the dews; but at 
first they should be put on during the day, until the cuttings will stand the 
exposure without flagging very much. The principal points to be attended to 
during the winter are giving air abundantly on all occasions when it can be 
given with safety, giving water only when absolutely necessary, and covering 
well up in frosty weather. If the cuttings are kept dry the coverings may 
remain on for two or three weeks during severe frosts without their suffering; 
but after a long frost the plants should not have too much air given for some 
time, unless the weather be very mild indeed. 
By attention to these matters few, if any, of the cuttings will go off during 
the winter. Towards the end of March the whole of the plants should be 
transplanted into temporary pits, if nothing better can be had, using a light 
sandy soil, and planting them about 6 inches apart. When planted the whole 
should receive a good watering, and, if there are any spare lights to cover them 
with, they should be kept rather close for a few days, but if there be no lights, 
then they must be protected with mats, canvass, or tiffany, which should be 
kept on during the night, and only removed for a short time during the middle 
of the day, until the plants get established, and the weather warmer, when 
they may be more exposed during the day. 
When they begin to grow they should be stopped back, to make them good 
bushy plants; but this operation should not be repeated after this time, as it 
would make them late in flowering. They should be well watered when they 
require it, and it should be done in the forenoon. If protected from frost they 
will make fine, healthy, bushy plants by the middle of May, when they can be 
transplanted with large balls into the flower-beds or ribbon-borders, where 
they will soon make a display. There is no better way of preparing Calceo¬ 
larias for the flower garden, and it has the advantages of being attended with 
