192 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST, 
Lettuces. Sow large breadths of Spinach and 
Turnips at the beginning of the month, to 
stand the winter, also Onions; the Tripoli 
and Strasburgh are the best for this purpose. 
Sow Lettuces and Radishes; the Bath Cos 
and Hammersmith Hardy Green are the best 
Lettuces for autumn sowing, to stand the 
winter. Sow Cabbages of sorts the beginning 
of the month; sow Cauliflowers twice during 
the month, about the 10th and the 20th. Take 
up Shallots and Garlic, and dry and store 
away. Cut and dry herbs. 
pun IT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit. —The late fine hot weather 
has been very favourable to fruit trees. 
Should the weather be fine during August 
and September, we shall have well-ripened 
wood and well-formed buds on all trees that 
have been properly attended to in the disbud¬ 
ding and thinning of the shoots, and as a 
natural consequence a good prospect of a crop 
of fruit next year. Look carefully over all 
trees, and remove every shoot not absolutely 
wanted for next year. Nail-in Peaches and 
Nectarines, and stop all strong shoots; nail-in 
Apricots. Stop and remove the foreright 
shoots of Pears, Plums, and Apples. Cut 
away all weak and superfluous shoots of the 
current year from Raspberries, leaving only 
sufficient of the strongest for next year’s bear¬ 
ing ; these should be securely fastened to ’ 
stakes. Cut away the canes that have done 
bearing. Cut off all runners and dead leaves 
from Strawberry plants; clean and stir the 
ground between the rows, so that the plants 
may mature well their crowns before the 
winter. Make new plantations without delay. 
Protect fruit from birds and insects, and gather 
before they get too ripe. Net Morello Cherries, 
Currants, Gooseberries, &c. In hot weather, 
Currants and Gooseberries will keep better 
under mats than nets. Wasps, flies, and ear¬ 
wigs are great pests to wall fruit; destroy and 
trap them by every possible means. Orchard- 
house. —Syringing must be discontinued when 
the fruit begin to ripen. No more water 
should be given than is absolutely necessary 
to keep the trees from suffering. All the air 
possible should be given day and night. Any 
shoots not absolutely, wanted should be re¬ 
moved, and all strong ones should have the 
ends pinched off. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
We have not seen flower gardens in general 
so gay and beautiful for some years as they 
are this, which is principally owing to the fine 
weather we have had lately. Every pains 
should be bestowed on them to keep them as 
long as possible in their present grandeur. 
Pinch off dead leaves and flowers ; thin shoots 
where crowded, and peg down where thin. 
Plants in vases will need liberal supplies of 
water. Put in cuttings of all the “ bedding 
stuff” as soon as they can be taken off with¬ 
out injuring the effects of the beds. Scarlet 
Geraniums, if put in early in the month, will 
strike well in the open border. Anagallis, 
Petunias, Yerbenas, &c. &c., will strike best 
in frames or under glasses. Pentstemons, 
Snapdragons, and Calceolarias will strike well 
under glasses behind a north wall. Plant out 
Wallflowers and Brompton Stocks. Sow 
hardy annuals. Gather seeds of choice flowers. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculae. —After lying dry and compara¬ 
tively dormant for the last two months, these 
plants must now claim attention. To insure 
a good growth and bloom next spring the 
plants will now require to be shaken out of 
the old soil, and repotted, using moderately 
rich but well-sweetened soil. The size of the 
pot to be used will depend on the strength of 
the plant, but by no means overpot. For some 
little time after repotting keep the plants 
rather close in a frame or pit; give air by 
degrees, and in proportion as they draw root, 
until they can be entirely exposed to the air, 
excepting to heavy rains, to which they 
should never be subjected if they can possibly 
be screened from it. Cinerarias. —Some care 
will be necessary during the hot weather. The 
Cineraria prefers a cool shady situation; yet 
if grown too much in the dark there is the 
danger of mildew; sulphur, should this appear. 
The first-struck cuttings will now require re¬ 
potting, as also the first-sown seedlings for 
early bloom. Continue to put in cuttings. 
Dahlias. —Go over the plants regularly twice 
a-week, to remove all superfluous small shoots 
and buds, but this must be done with care 
and judgment, only cutting away a little at a 
time, leaving large varieties full of wood for a 
time. Water freely during dry weather, and 
in addition give the plants a good sprinkling 
overhead every evening, after the sun has left 
them. Secure the side shoots by tying them 
to stakes, in doing which draw them away 
from the centre, to prevent weakness by over¬ 
crowding of the shoots. Earwigs should be 
got under before the bloom commences, to 
prevent the annoyance they occasion by dis¬ 
figuring the finest blooms. Pansies. —Choose 
a cool showery time for transplanting these. 
They are not easily managed during the hot 
weather we get in the south. Pelargoniums. 
—Sow seed as soon as sufficiently ripe. Re¬ 
pot cuttings as soon as struck, using good 
rich soil; grow them quite hardy. The Pelar¬ 
goniums will stand any amount of light, 
either striking or afterwards; we seldom 
shade. PinJcs. —As soon as sufficiently rooted, 
plant them out into the beds that have been 
prepared for them, which should have been 
well trenched, and made rich with rotten 
manure. Pinks winter better and produce 
larger flowers by early planting. The re¬ 
mainder of the stock should be planted out in 
spare beds, much nearer together. Look well 
after the grubs, so destructive at this season 
to the young plants. 
