NOVEMBER. 
259 
times included it among permissible fertilisers. My later experience, however, is 
not in accordance with this view, as I have found it develope the leaf rather than 
the flower. When placing the bulb in the pot, the crown or apex should be just 
above the soil. The pots should be placed on the level soil, out of doors, and 
surrounded and covered over with a thick layer, say 6 inches, of cinder ashes, as 
an efficient protection against frost. They should not be left more than two 
months in this position, by which time the leaves and flower-spikes will be pushing 
into life. Eemove them then to a cold pit, greenhouse, or forcing-house, accord¬ 
ing to the date at which they are wanted to flower. Deluge the soil with water, 
which repeat at intervals till the dowers are on the wane. Place the plants close 
to the glass, and admit abundance of air, that the leaves may not be developed 
out of proportion. It may be well to bear in mind that the long slatternly leaves 
and attenuated stems sometimes met with in Hyacinths are due to the want of 
air and light. It is, however, necessary to say that the Hyacinth, however skil¬ 
fully grown, requires an artificial support for the flower-stem, owing to the suc¬ 
culent and supple nature of the latter. For this purpose a piece of wire bent 
zigzag fashion is the best contrivance I have hitherto been able to apply. 
“ Hyacinths, under our sy stem of cultivation, do not succeed a second year 
in pots or glasses, but if planted out of doors when taken from the pots or glasses, 
they become highly decorative in the future of the flower garden. 
“The cultivation of Hyacinths in glasses is a delightful recreation, and so 
accessible to rich and poor, young and old, and fraught with so many pleasing 
incidents and associations, that I am not surprised to find this beautiful branch of 
in-door gardening very generally practised. Nothing is easier than to grow good 
Hyacinths in glasses, provided the cultivator possesses himself of good sound bulbs. 
“ Size is not always evidence of quality. Weight furnishes a more reliable 
test. To know the conditions and method of previous culture are, however, the 
most satisfactory means of arriving at correct conclusions on this head. That 
these points are worthy of attention will be apparent when we state that there is 
a difference of nearly fifty per cent, in the quality and marketable value of the 
bulbs annually imported. 
“Nothing can be more interesting than to watch the development of root, 
and leaf, and flower during the growth of Hyacinths in glasses. The springing 
up of the leaves in winter, when the vegetable world without is in a state of rest, 
is a refreshing harbinger of returning spring. The rapid rise of the flower-spike 
is hardly a trial of patience to the least patient, and the flush of blossoms places 
in his hands a chaste and finished object of beauty :— 
“ Well they reward the toil— 
The sight is pleased, the scent regaled ; 
Each opening blossom freely breathes abroad 
Its gratitude, and thanks him with its sweets.” 
“I shall conclude this paper with a few short, simple rules relating to 
Hyacinths grown in glasses. These rules may be learnt in five minutes, and if 
followed, will, I am persuaded, be attended with satisfactory results. 
“ 1. If you choose your own bulbs, look for weight as well as size; be sure 
also that the base of the bulb is sound. 
“2. Use the single kinds only, because they are earlier, hardier, and generally 
preferable for glasses. 
“3. Set the bulb in the glass so that the lower end is almost, but not quite, 
in contact with the water. 
“ 4. Use rain or pond water. 
“5. Do not change the water, but keep a small lump of charcoal at the 
bottom of the glass. 
“ 6. Fill up the glasses with water as the level sinks by the feeding of the 
roots and by evaporation. 
“ 7. When the bulb is placed, put the glass in a cool dark cupboard, or in 
any place where light is excluded, there to remain for about six weeks, as the 
roots feed more freely in the dark. 
“ 8. When the roots are freely developed, and the flower-spike is pushing 
into life (which will be in about six weeks), remove by degrees to full light and air. 
