276 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
and rose-coloured varieties of Cedo Nulli—Morceau, a hybrid Pompon, colour 
dark rose, tipped with white ; and Florence, dark rose, very fine. 
Both in and out of doors I observed several of the Anemone-flowered Chry¬ 
santhemums, but I cannot work up any great amount of enthusiasm over them. 
The fact that they are cultivated proves that they have their admirers, and our 
Chrysanthemum raisers seem to be also engaged in improving this somewhat 
restricted class. I have occasionally seen a stand of cut blooms of Anemone- 
flowered varieties at an exhibition of Chrysanthemums, but I have always 
considered that a stand of Zinnia elegans is much to be preferred to them. 
Quo. 
THE PLANTING OF FRUIT TREES. 
How frequently we see trees after planting exhibit visible signs of being 
badly treated! It would seem, if one were to judge from the manner in which 
planting is sometimes executed, that no care is manifested about the ultimate 
result, and that the sole object is to cover the roots with soil and leave the 
tree to take care of itself. In the following remarks I shall state, for the 
information of those who are inexperienced in such matters, the proper method 
to be followed to insure success. 
Fruit trees may be planted from the fall of the leaf until the rising of the 
sap in spring; but autumnal planting is preferable to any other. November 
is unquestionably the best month for the work, providing it be gloomy, as it 
usually is. After some heavy dewy mornings, when you are sure of wet 
weather, seize the opportunity, and I venture to assert that, by properly con¬ 
ducting the removal of trees and shrubs in this month, there will not be one 
failure in a hundred plants ; for the trees will push forth some new roots 
before the commencement of severe weather, and will have partly established 
themselves before the action of the sap in the spring following takes place. 
But if the work has to be done in winter, do it when the weather is mild, as a 
frosty air soon damages the tender fibres. Whatever time of year you may 
choose to plant in, let it not be performed in wet weather, for it is requisite to 
press the earth a little, so that it may close upon the roots, and assist them in 
striking into the soil; and if this is done when the soil is wet it would become 
like mortar, and when dry it sets hard, and is in such a state as to be injurious 
to the trees. 
Great care must be taken that the trees are not planted too deep, as it is 
always injurious to them. Never plant them above the collar; in wet heavy 
soil 6 inches will be deep enough. Strict attention should be paid to the under 
stratum, which is of great importance in promoting the fertility of the tree. 
If it should be a stiff clay, I have found it a good plan to lay flat tiles to 
prevent the roots from striking into it, and as this gives them a horizontal direc¬ 
tion, the fibres will increase abundantly and run rapidly. This is far preferable 
to digging into the clay, and filling up the hole with stones, and planting 
over them, as is very often done; for the hole will be mostly full of water, 
and where cold stagnant water is retained about the roots it is certain to 
produce a diseased tree. It is a practice with me, when I plant a tree, always 
to spread out the roots, and not do as it is practised by many—thrust and 
cram them into small holes. The roots are naturally inclined to grow in a 
horizontal direction, and therefore they should always be planted so as to 
enable them to acquire such a position. The roots of such trees as have been 
previously grown in pots will particularly require this attention. 
Every tree should be watered after planting, to wash the earth in about the 
