24 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ January, 
witli a broom, afterwards dress them with a mixture of soft soap, urine, and soot. 
Root-pruning, if not done in October, may be still carried on. Operate on those 
trees that are unfruitful or growing too strong; this is done by cutting a trench 
two or three feet from the stem, according to the size of the tree, shortening the 
large roots, and placing some rotten manure in the trench. Go on with the 
pruning of Small fruits, manuring and forking the ground between the trees. 
Pay attention to the Fruit Room; remove all decayed fruit, and give air if at 
all damp.—J. Powell, Frogmore. 
VEGETABLES. 
There is of necessity a great deal of sameness or repetition in the operations of 
the three principal winter months. During mild periods, the chief work possible 
consists of hoeing young crops during the dryer periods, removing all decaying 
matter, sweeping walks, &c,, and keeping all in neat and workmanlike trim. The 
chief or heavier main work, such as digging, trenching, &:c., has of necessity 
been greatly in abeyance, owing to the fact that little opportunity had occurred 
for wheeling out manures. Should severe weather occur, advantage should im¬ 
mediately be taken to wheel all the necessary fertilising materials on to the 
spaces needing it. Should no frosts visit us, it will soon be absolutely necessary to 
make a determined effort for the work’s sake, even under adverse circumstances. 
The operation of wheeling during damp, soft, frostless weather may be greatly 
aided by means of a good set of planks, and no well-ordered garden should be 
without them. Where no such aid exists, the unsightly and disagreeable results 
of cutting up walks, and the “ licking up ” of the wheels, may be neutralised 
by first laying a row of long straw-litter along those portions of the walks which it 
is necessary to traverse ; this is readily removed, when the wheeling is finished. 
When once the necessary manure has been distributed, the operations of trench¬ 
ing and digging should be carried on with all despatch, as somehow or other time 
always becomes at a premium with gardeners. The quarters intended for Onions^ 
Carrots^ Parsnips, and Early Peas should at all times be trenched if possible. 
It is always a judicious procedure, should a mild and suitable period occur, 
to sow Broad Beans (Mazagan or Dwarf Fan) and Peas (Carter’s First-crop) 
about the 20th of the month. Attend to the successional supply of Asparagus^ 
Seakale, Chicory^ Rhubarh^ Mint^ Tarragon^ &c., by placing fresh batches of 
roots or crowns of either, into the necessary warm position for growing, or as in 
the case of Seakale, by occasionally shifting the pots of such stools as have been 
used, and placing them over fresh stools, covering up with the fermenting 
materials. Where convenience exists, make a sowing of Radishes (Wood’s 
Early Frame); also of Carrots (Short or French Horn). Kidney Potatos may 
now be brought from the store-room in the necessary quantities, and be placed 
in shallow boxes upon moss or cocoa-nut fibre ; water them occasionally, to 
induce the eyes to form young shoots, and subsequently plant them out for an 
early crop into the necessary frames or pits. Keep up the successional sowings 
of Small Salading. 
In regard to the Cucumber house, whilst a maximum of about 68° to 75° be 
maintained during the day—the brighter the day the more the heat—be very 
careful not to permit excessive heat at night; for not only will this cause a ■weak 
and “ dwindling ” growth, but what is of more immediate importance, it will 
cause the plants to become abortive. A temperature of about 60° by night is 
far preferable during short days and dull weather than one of 5° or 10° higher. 
Air must be given on all proper occasions, and some slight external covering 
would lessen the outlay for fuel, to the great benefit of the plants.— William 
Earley, Valentines. 
