1874. ] 
GARDEN WORK FOR MARCH. 
71 
one-third of leaf-soil. Winter-flowering Eupatoriums and Lihonias should be 
cut back, and propagated from young wood. Cinerarias and Primulas must be 
shifted for late flowering, and more seed sown for a supply of early-blooming 
plants. Cyclamens that were sown in autumn must be shifted, and grown on in 
a temperature of about 50'^ to 55°. Camellias that are planted out must be 
watered freely at the root, and such as are thoroughly established will derive 
benefit from applications of liquid manure. 
Push forward the propagation of Bedding-plants^ and pot off Pelargoniums 
and such as are rooted. Many of the fibrous-rooted plants do best in shallow, 
handy-sized boxes, into which they may be planted from the cutting-pots. The 
variegated varieties of Pelargoniums will now root freely from cuttings. Sow 
seeds of Amaranthus^ Perilla^ &c. Start Daldia-roots in a brisk heat. Plant 
out Calceolarias at 6 in. apart in cold frames or turf-pits ; towards the end of 
the month they may be planted in trenches in light soil. Divide Violas^ and 
start them in frames.— G-. Westland, Witley Court. 
FRUITS. 
Peaches and Nectarinet: Water the inside border of the early house if the 
crop is swelling; thin the fruit, but be careful to leave sufficient to allow for 
dropping during the process of stoning. Attend to previous directions in regard 
to temperature, but toward the end of the month, as heat and light increase, the 
temperature may range a little higher, especially during sunshine ; use the syringe 
at closing-time, and fumigate whenever green-fly appears. 
Cherries and Plums: Use the syringe to keep up the necessary moisture till 
the trees come into flower; at that time the atmosphere must be less humid, and 
abundance of air must be admitted ; give a night temperature of 60°, rising from 
10° to 15° through the day, during sun-heat. Plums will require plenty of 
water at the root if growing in pots. 
Straivherries: The plants should be liberally supplied with liquid manure 
during the time the fruit is swelling; be careful at this stage not to let the plants 
suffer at any time from drought; use the syringe to keep the foliage clean and 
healthy. Give plenty of air to those in flower, and place more plants inside for 
succession. If the stock of plants in pots be limited, it is a very good plan to lift 
some strong young plants from the open ground, with balls of earth, slip them 
into pots, and place them under glass at once ; they usually produce a good crop. 
Melons: Attend to the linings of those in frames by adding fresh stable-litter, 
and turning the whole together, so that a top-heat of about 70° be maintained. 
Pinch out the points of the leading shoots as soon as they begin to spread ; earth- 
up and water sparingly. Plant out those sown last month, and sow again. 
Pines: Keep up a moist atmosphere in the case of those to which fire-heat is 
applied, and give the fruiting plants a good soaking of water so soon as the fruit- 
spike is visible ; all other plants that are dry will also require water. Such of 
the succession plants as require a shift and were not potted last month, should 
be seen to at once ; use free turfy loam, mixed with a fourth-part rotten manure ; 
turn or renew the beds before replacing the plants ; keep them a little close till 
they begin to grow, when more air should be given. 
Vines: Muscats require a high temperature, with air when in flower, to 
ensure their setting properly. The temperature in the succession-houses may 
range a little higher, now that we have more solar heat and light; from 65° to 
70° is a good average night temperature. Keep up a moist heat in the early 
house till the fruit begins to colour. See last month’s directions for Vines in 
pots ; those intended for fruiting next season should now have every attention, 
and the pots should be kept plunged in bottom-heat, if possible. 
