190 
[ August, 
THE FLOEIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
using a healthy compost of equal parts of loam, peat, and leaf-soil,*with a free 
admixture of silver-sand. Shift on the smallest-sized plants for specimens, 
using the compost in a rougher state. The double varieties are not grown 
nearly so much as .they deserve to be, as they are so free in flowering,'and far 
superior to the single ones for cutting from. 
Stove: Attend to the training of climbing plants, more particularly upon the roof, 
as they soon become a confused mass, and if not kept under subordination, they 
obscure the light, and retard the ripening of the growth upon plants under¬ 
neath, which should now have more exposure, with more air, and less water at 
the root, in order to thoroughly mature their growth. This ripening process 
should also be assisted by setting the plants thinly, and elevating them near to 
the glass. As a general rule, flowering plants in stoves are over-shaded, and in 
consequence their blooming qualities are impaired. Poinsettias that are placed 
in their blooming pots should be fully exposed to the atmosphere, so as to ensure 
a sturdy habit of growth, so desirable in these effective plants ; keep successional 
plants freely stopped back, and guard against drawing. Euphorbias^ and such 
plants as are being got forward for winter blooming, must have attention. 
Greenhouse: The hardiest portion of hard-wooded plants that have made 
some growth will be now benefited by being placed out-of-doors, choosing a 
situation which is slightly shaded from the mid-day sun—for example, under 
a north wall, or in the shade of a hedge, or of trees where they are not over-hung. 
The pots must stand upon a bed of ashes or on slates, so that they may be secure 
against worfns. They will require attention in watering, and lightly syringing 
overhead in the evenings of bright days. 
Plants of Laburnum^ Thorn^ Lilac^ &c., that are grown in pots, and plunged 
in soil, should be frequently twisted round, so as to prevent their rooting through, 
which will check grossness of growth, and promote thorough maturation. 
Camellias: Now is the best time to graft, and propagate the single red for 
stocks. Care in watering is necessary at this period of development, more par¬ 
ticularly with such as are planted-out, as the strong-growing varieties, such as 
Marchioness of Exeter, when too freely supplied with moisture, are apt to make 
secondary growth in place of flower-buds. Less water at the root and 
atmospherically, with a free circulation of air, will be conducive to bud-formation. 
Ferns: In most establishments, quantities of small plants are in demand 
during the winter months for the various purposes of embellishment, and these 
should now have attention, potting on a quantity of seedlings in small pots, and 
if necessary, dividing Adianturns, &c., for this purpose; these, if shaded and 
encouraged for a few weeks, soon make famous plants. Lycopods are also very 
serviceable for this purpose. 
Pelargoniums: Cut down the show varieties, keeping them dry until they 
show signs of breaking. Plants that were cut down early, and have broken suffi¬ 
ciently strong, should be shaken out of the soil, the roots being reduced, and the 
plants repotted into sizes according to their strength ; start them in a frame or 
pit, and shade during the day, paying strict attention to watering until they 
are fairly started. The fancy varieties require a lighter soil than the show 
sorts.— Geoege Westland, Witley Court. 
FRUITS. 
Vines: Keep the houses containing ripe Grapes well aired and free from 
moisture ; and as soon as the crop is cleared, the sashes may be removed, if the 
wood is properly matured. Vines in pots should be watered often with liquid 
manure, and those intended for forcing next season should be stopped as soon as 
they are of the desired length ; cut out all lateral shoots close to the fniiting bud 
