214 
THE FLOEIST AND POMOLOQIST. 
[ September, 
tion, as well as to foliage plants generally. Divide and replant Rockets and other 
perennials which have been cut back, and are now making fresh growth. Plant 
in beds, Caimations^ Pinks^ Pansies^ and when sufiSciently rooted, potting 
up a portion to be wintered in frames. Hardy Annuals should now be sown, 
in a sheltered situation, upon a piece of poor ground made pretty solid. These 
much neglected and brilliant subjects merit a far greater share of attention 
than they receive, flowering as they do so early in the season. In addition to 
those named at p. 189, I would add Eucharidium grandijlorum^ Silene, Godetia, 
Eutoca^ Whitlavia^ and Nemophila, which are most effective. Transplant Ever¬ 
greens towards the end of the month, and proceed with the propagation of 
Laurels, and of evergreens in general. 
Conservatory: At present the display here will be kept up with such flower¬ 
ing plants as Lilium^ Vallota^ Fuchsia^ Lantana^Begonia (of which there are 
many charming sorts, adapted to his purpose), Statice, Tritonia, Pelar¬ 
gonium, Celosia, &c. Judiciously intermixed with handsome foliage, these 
are sufficient to make an effective show. Be careful in watering, and moderate 
in the use of shading, more particularly when many permanent plants are grown 
in these structures. 
Fuchsias that have been grown out-of-doors, with the blooms pinched off, 
should now be placed under cover, and encouraged with manure-water; the 
blossoms they now make will stand a long time, and grown thus they are amongst 
the most effective autumn-blooming plants we have. Marie Cornelissen^ an old 
variety, with white corolla, stands remarkably well for late work. 
Chrysanthemums that are planted out and intended for pots should be lifted 
during the month, and placed under a north wall, or otherwise shaded for a few 
days until they get fresh hold, frequently sprinkling with the syringe overhead. 
Established plants, having filled their pots with roots, should have manure-water 
at each watering. 
Greenhouses of all descriptions should have a thorough cleansing, previous to 
their being refilled with plants, washing the glass and wood-work, so that light 
is not by any means excluded. Towards the middle of the month everything 
should be in readiness for placing the great majority of plants under cover, 
previous to which the pots should be washed, and the plants themselves cleansed 
from insect-pests. They must be freely ventilated night and day, after they are 
placed under glass. 
Camellias that have been standing out should be examined, repotting any 
plants that are found in a soured condition at the root. The plants generally 
should have as much air as possible, both night and day, taking care that they 
are not subjected to sudden checks, which would affect the swelling of the buds. 
A healthy state of moisture must be maintained at the root, and the foliage 
kept clean by sponging. 
Stoves: Plants that have completed their growth should have less water at 
the root, and be more fully exposed to light and air, so that the wood may be 
thoroughly hardened. Winter-blooming plants that are now in active growth 
must be encouraged ; shading will be no longer required for this class of plants, 
in general. Poinsettias^ that are fully exposed in pits, must be protected from 
cold, cutting winds, which would damage the foliage, but otherwise may be ex¬ 
posed until the end of the month. Thin-out superfluous wood upon Stephanotis 
and other climbers that have perfected their growth, keeping them moderately 
dry at the root. 
Orchids: All plants that are finishing their growth should be kept drier at 
the root, reducing atmospheric moisture, lowering the night temperature, and 
