1874.] 
GARDEN WORK FOR SEPTEMBER. 
215 
ventilating more fully to induce thorougli maturation, for upon this, in a great 
measure, will depend the soundness of the plants. Dendrohium nohile^ and D. 
moniliforme^ with such as are intended for winter-blooming, should be fully 
exposed to the sun, so as to induce early maturation ; reduce the amount of 
shading used by degrees. 
No time should now be lost in finishing the propagation of Bedding Plants in 
general. Pelargoniums that have been rooted in the open ground should be 
potted, and fully exposed for a few weeks, as hardy stiff plants are much to be 
preferred to gross sappy stuff for standing the winter; therefore all cuttings that 
are rooted should be freely exposed so as to engender a sound constitution before 
winter. Alternantheras and other tender plants must be propagated in heat. Such 
border-plants as Pentstemons should now be propagated, as they are most effective 
subjects for borders, and not nearly enough grown. Put in a good supply of 
cuttings of Hydrangeas for blooming in small pots. Lift and pot Carnations that 
have been grown for early forcing, sprinkling over-head, and shading until re¬ 
established. Place a good supply of Violets in frames, planting them firmly and 
rather closely, but not crowding them ; also pot a portion, which will come in 
handy; after planting, water freely, and shade for a day or two until established, 
but otherwise keep them fully exposed. Eoman, and early single Hyacinths^ &:c., 
should be potted as early as possible; the Eoman should be planted in groups 
according to the size of the pots, an inch apart, as they are only effective when 
seen in masses ; and as a general rule I would recommend all other early sorts to 
be potted in threes. Ee-pot Lachenalias^ &c.— Geo. Westland, Witley Court. 
FRUITS. 
Pines: Keep a moist night temperature of from 70° to 75° when the fruit 
is swelling ; the day temperature may rise to 90° during sunshine. No growing 
plants nor those in fruit should at any time suffer from drought. Plants intended 
for fruiting next season should be potted at once, if not already done (see previous 
directions). Those intended for fruiting in the spring should have a moderate 
supply of water and a steady temperature. Pot crowns and suckers, place them 
in a moist, close pit, and when rooted give them the usual treatment. 
Vines: A dry atmosphere is requisite for keeping ripe grapes, therefore if 
there is any damp in the house, a little fire-heat through the day would be bene¬ 
ficial, admitting at the same time plenty of air ; cut out all decayed berries, and 
nail gauze over the openings if wasps are troublesome. Eemove the sashes, as 
soon as any of the houses are clear of the crop and the wood is well matured. 
Pot-vines intended for early forcing next season should now be taken out of the 
house, and nailed to a warm wall, the pots being covered with litter. They can 
remain thus till required for forcing. 
Peaches and Nectarines: Presuming that the trees have all been gone over, 
and the useless shoots cut out, the lights may now be taken off, if the growth is 
finished and the wood is ripe ; water the borders if dry. 
Strawberries: These may yet be potted for late forcing ; clear away all weeds 
and runners from those potted last month, and attend to the watering, giving 
liquid manure occasionally, and placing the pots in a fully exposed situation. 
Melons: The late crop will not require much water after this time, but a 
little fire-heat would be beneficial, if it can be conveniently applied, otherwise, 
make the best use of sun-heat. 
Hardy Fruit: Late Peaches should have a good soaking of water at the root, 
if the weather continues dry; and the trees should be syringed occasionally till 
the fruit is ripening; remove a portion of the leaves that cover the fruit, so that 
it may have full exposure to the sun. As soon as any of the trees of the earher 
