240 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ OCTOBEE, 
ferable to lose a few by dropping than to gather too early. In gathering, great 
care should be taken not to bruise the fruit, especially the finer varieties of Pears, 
which should be laid singly on the shelves, and not be again moved till they are 
ready for table. Air and light should be admitted to the fruit store for a month 
or so after the fruit is .gathered, to allow the moisture given out by it to pass 
away; but after that time, it is best to close the store, taking care at all times to 
remove quickly the decaying fruit. Expose late Peaches wholly to the sun, by 
removing the leaves from the fruit; cover them at night with canvas if frosty, 
or it is a good plan to place spare lights over the trees. 
Finish clearing out runners, &c., from Strawhemj-hQdi^^ and get the ground 
forked over between the plants at once ; new plantations may still be made. All 
kinds of young fruit-trees may be planted as soon as the leaves have partially or 
wholly fallen, but it is not advisable to remove them before this, especially in the 
case of large trees. Plant Raspherry-cdJies,^ and propagate Gooseberries and 
Currants. Gather Filberts and Walnuts ; dry -them well, before storing them in 
boxes or jars for winter use.—J. Powell, Frogmore. 
VEGETABLES. 
A point should be made during the early part of this month to give to all 
Winter crops a thorough hoeing and weeding, always, if possible, choosing dry 
weather for the work. If this is not done, the chances are that all such crops 
will become foul, and exhibit a weedy and untidy appearance throughout the 
whole winter. More particularly should such a hoeing be given to Winter 
Spinach., which thrives and does far better after surface-stirring than when the 
ground is, allowed to remain firm and hard beaten. Vacant spaces should be 
ridged up for the winter at the earliest possible moment. All light grounds which 
have not been trenched during the past three or four years may be so operated 
upon with much advantage ; at the same time, any garden refuse of whatever 
description may be wheeled thereon and worked in. We are too apt to deal with 
green refuse as if it were valueless, often burning it to ashes, the fact being that 
it is one of the most powerful fertilisers we possess, if it can but be buried in 
sufficient quantities. Take up the main crops of Parsnips and Carrots., more 
especially the latter, as soon as their green tops show signs of ripening off. We 
are, however, much opposed to the practice of taking up Parsnips, except as they 
are required for use, for they are not nearly so good when so treated, but become 
dry, tough, and stringy, whereas if left in the ground until required for use, they 
remain tender, and as we should surmise, far more nutritious. The young seedling 
Caulifloivers intended for the earlier spring crops must be carefully looked to, 
for slugs and a variety of insect pests often play great havoc amongst them at 
this time of year, unless their ravages are guarded against. Transplant young 
Lettuces., the produce of seeds sown during August, as suggested. This will be 
found a useful crop for the very early spring supply. Those who possess the 
necessary frames or pits should fill them with any larger-sized Lettuces and 
Endive., so that they may be protected from inclement weather, s^iould it set in 
a month or two hence ; but when they are so planted, always take off the lights 
bodily and treat the crop as if it were an out-door one, only making use of the 
sashes by and by, and when it becomes absolutely necessary. Towards the end, 
or third week in the month, the late July or early August-sown plants should 
also be transplanted to their permanent quarters. Always plant these out freely 
and abundantly, as it rarely, if ever, occurs that too many are planted, or too large 
a supply of these very tender and highly-appreciated spring vegetables is provided. 
—William Earley, Valentines, 
