1874.] 
GARDEN WORK FOR NOVEMBER. 
263 
Hoses, &c., bearing in mind that the successful forcing of sucb subjects mainly 
depends on the previous preparation and maturation of the wood and crowns; 
the buds must be thoroughly ripe to insure success. 
Bedding-plants must have free ventilation during fine weather, as they suffer 
more from confined damp than any other cause. Hardy subjects, such as Carna¬ 
tions, Hollyhocks, &c., should have abundance of air during fine weather, while 
protecting materials should be at hand in case of frost.—G. Westland, Witley. 
FRUITS. 
Vinery: If the early house was closed at the end of last month, a little 
fire-heat may now be given, should the weather be cold and the nights frosty, 
in order that the night temperature may not fall below 45°, and the day 
temperature may range about 60°. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling the 
pipes and floor of the house frequently, the Vines being syringed every day as 
well; give air in bright weather, and raise the temperature 5° by the end of the 
month. Prune and clean the succession Vines as soon as the leaves have fallen. 
Cherries and Plums: All Pot Plants intended for forcing should be looked 
over, to see that the drainage is perfect, and any that may require more pot-room 
should now be shifted. This is the best time to pot young trees, in preparation 
for forcing another season ; after potting, plunge them in a bed of leaves, to pro¬ 
tect them from frost and to excite root-action. 
Peach-house: Finish tying the trees in the early house ; put on the sashes, 
and surface the borders with a mixture of fresh loam and dung. If early 
peaches are required, the house should be closed at night; but do not apply fire- 
heat for the present, except the nights are cold and frosty, when a little heat 
may be given towards the end of the month. 
Strawberries: Those intended for early forcing had better be placed under 
glass in a cold frame, or the pots laid on their sides at the foot of a wall—either 
plan will answer, the object being to secure the plants against heavy rains, so 
that they may dry before the forcing time arrives. All others should be placed 
in their winter quarters, either stacking them sideways in coal-ashes, or packing 
fern or litter round the pots, to protect them from frost. 
Pines: Keep a steady bottom-heat of from 75° to 80° to the succession plants, 
and a night temperature of 65°, with a rise of 10° to 15° during sunshine. Give 
air at every favourable opportunity, but close early in the afternoon. Less water 
will now be needed. Plants swelling their fruit should be kept a little warmer 
than the succession plants. Keep the atmosphere moist, and give air every mild 
quiet day. Bear in mind to have plenty of leaves in readiness, for use by and by. 
Hardy Fruit: During this month is, perhaps, the best time to Poot-prune any 
fruit-trees that are growing too rank or are otherwise unfruitful. If large trees 
are to be operated on, only one side should be done at a time, by cutting a trench 
half way round the tree, reserving the other side till another time. In filling up 
this trench, use some fresh loam and dung with the old soil. Root-pruning young 
trees is a simple matter, and consists in merely running the spade round the 
trees, about 2 ft. from the stem. All Fruit-trees may now be planted, or large 
trees shifted. In the renewal of Wall-trees, where the borders are old, the ground 
should be well trenched to the full width of the border, and fresh loam and 
manure mixed with the old soil as the work proceeds; mulch the trees after 
planting with rotten manure, to encourage them to make roots at once. Go over 
Peach and Nectarine trees with a soft broom, to remove a portion of the leaves, 
that the wood may get well ripened. Any other fruit-trees that have shed their 
leaves may be pruned. Air will still be required to the late fruit store till the 
