16 
THE FLOEIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ January, 
In this work on Carnivorous Plants there is nothing, strictly speaking, botani¬ 
cal; it is quite a microscopic inquiry, and if it was legitimate in Byron to joke 
about the time that it took light to travel, when, as he expressed it, “ it was 
packed up for its journey,” surely plebeians might make wry faces at such mites 
of matter experimented with as cubes of cheese 1-20th of an inch on the side. 
Nobody, however, can doubt the author’s honesty, for he has given chapter and 
verse for what he has borrowed, and weight and measure for the experiments 
he has made ; but the conclusions arrived at will be scanned differently by persons 
more or less acquainted with the subject. The wonder is that so much could be 
said, all on one side, of a thing so small, and that never has been, nor is ever likely 
to be, of any service to either man or beast—for we cannot counsel the thirsty 
fly to shun the bait, nor warn the midge of danger.— Alex. Foesyth, Saford. 
It may be noted in reference to this subject, that in Drosera dichotoma, 
which grows freely in orchid-houses, the lobes of the leaves, instead of advancing 
in growth, rapidly decay, though previously in apparently perfect health, after an 
insect has been caught by the viscid secretions, and commences to decay. This 
fact was pointed out to us by Mr. Stevens, of Trentham, on plants cultivated by 
him, and as having been often observed, and does not at all support the theory of 
animal-nutrition taken in through the leaves.— Ed. 
PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS FOE AUTUMN AND WINTER. 
r HEN large quantities of flowers are required in autumn and early winter, 
this plant, from the distinct colour of its blossoms, and the easy way in 
which it can be had in great beauty, should be grown largely. In March, 
put in a quantity of cuttings, which will root freely in a frame amongst 
other spring things that are being struck. When well rooted, pot off singly into 
small pots, using rather a free compost, and replacing them in a close, warm 
frame or pit, until they have taken with the soil, when they ought to be removed 
to a house where the temperature ranges about 45° at night, with a rise during 
the day ; as spring advances they will stand in a cold frame (say all May), keep¬ 
ing frost from them, and never letting them suffer either from want of water or 
of pot-room. 
When all danger from frost is past, select a good piece of ground, sheltered 
from rough winds, but fully exposed to the sun, and plant them out of their pots, 
18 in. apart. Here they will require little or no attention until near the end of 
September, except an occasional pinching, and if dry weather sets in, a few copious 
waterings. They should then be lifted carefully and potted into as small pots as 
the roots can be got into, watering them well, and standing them in a cold frame, 
kept close and shaded, if bright sun occurs, for about ten days, giving them an 
occasional sprinkle overhead with the syringe in the morning. If these plants 
are put into a gentle heat, they will soon open their blooms, when, by transferring 
them to the greenhouse, they will be found very useful for mixing amongst other 
things, and will stand for a long time, if knife or scissors is kept off them. 
We had a lot of Lihonias treated in the same way which flowered beautifully ' 
