1876. J 
GARDEN WORK FOR MARCH. 
69 
roots will be formed. A nigM-temperature of 60° will be sufficient for the present. 
Examine successions wintered in small pots ; remove a good portion of the old 
soil, and repot and treat them as suckers. 
Vines: Finish pruning, and paint the cuts with Thomson’s Styptic. En¬ 
courage Muscats and all late kinds to make a move as the fruit keeps better when 
ripened early in the autumn. Early Grapes approaching the stoning period 
require care. If night-air cannot be given, with 65° as a minimum, ventilate 
early in the morning. Avoid draughts, the most fertile cause of rust; run up to 
85° with sun-heat, close early, and damp every available space. The ammonia 
given off by mulchings of horse-dung will keep spider in check, but if it becomes 
troublesome, paint the return-pipes with sulphur. Give liquid manure 10° warmer 
than the house to Vines fruiting in pots, and allow them to make as many leaves 
as can be fully exposed to the influence of light. 
Peaches and Nectarines: Attend to the disbudding, tying, and training of 
young growths in the early house. Examine inside borders, and if well drained, 
water freely with tepid liquid manure. The night temperature may range from 
55° to 60° by the end of the month, with a rise of 10° by day ; ply the syringe 
freely after closing, and if red-spider appears, a little Gishurst or soft-soap may 
be added to the water. Thin the fruit sparingly until the stoning period is over. 
Trees in the succession-house will now be ready for disbudding. Give air night 
and day except in frosty weather to the latest house, to secure a succession. 
Figs: The earliest Figs in pots plunged in gentle bottom-heat will now be 
making good progress. Attend to the thinning and stopping of young growths ; 
syringe well under the foliage twice a day, and on no account allow the trees to 
become dry at the root, as the slightest check in this direction will cause the 
fruit to drop. The night temperature may now range from 60° to 65°, with a rise 
of 10° to 15° by day. A second house may now be closed, and brought on steadily. 
Cherries and Plums: Dispense with fire-heat as much as possible, unless the 
minimum temperature falls below 40° ; ventilate freely at all times, and main¬ 
tain a light buoyant atmosphere when the trees are in blossom. Fertilise with a 
camel-hair pencil. Syringe twice a day, when the fruit is set, and look carefully 
over the trees for grubs. Plums are liable to be attacked by green-fly, when the 
buds begin to unfold, therefore fumigate before the flowers open. Stop young 
growths at the fifth leaf, and treat the same as Cherries when the fruit is set. 
Hardy Fruits: The most important matter in this department, this month, is 
the protection of the blossom. For fruit-trees on walls, broad temporary coping- 
boards, supported by light larch poles, in front of which three or four thicknesses 
of fishing-net may be suspended, form a covering which keeps the bloom dry, and 
does not shut out light, nor impede the free circulation of air. Early-blooming trees, 
like the Apricot^ often produce the best crops when planted against west walls. After 
the middle of the month, gradually remove the covering from Figs; thin out 
the shoots, and nail in. Graft Apples and Pears. Shorten back Raspherry- 
canes, and plant out Strawberries when the ground is in good working condition. 
—W. Coleman, Eastnor Castle. 
VEGETABLES. 
Kitchen Garden: March is always a busy month in this department, therefore 
no time should be lost in pushing on the work; fortunately, the dry, open 
weather through the greater part of last month gave an opportunity for getting 
the soil in good condition, to receive the spring crops. Proceed at once with sow¬ 
ing the main crops of Onions. Parsnips, Leelcs., and Carrots {Early Horn). Make 
successional sowings of Peas^ such as Champion of England, Scimitar, VeitcPs 
