1876. ] 
GARDEN WORK FOR APRIL. 
87 
exposure of the fruit to sun and light; hut up to this period the trees may he 
liberally supplied with stimulants, and have copious syringings on the underside 
of the foliage—the stronghold of red-spider. Stop at the fifth leaf in succession- 
houses ; tie down the shoots ; mulch the borders with good rotten dung, and 
treat as advised for pot-plants. 
Cherries and Plums: Continue syringing twice a day until the stoning is 
complete and the fruit begins to change colour, when it must be discontinued, to 
prevent cracking. Give plenty of air, and maintain a low night temperature. If 
it be desirable to hasten the ripening, let the heat be increased in the day-time. 
Syringe Plums twice a day, supply the roots with stimulants, and thin the young 
fruit. Stop at the fifth leaf, and smoke on the first appearance of green-fly. 
Hardy Fruits: Although, owing to the lateness of the season, fruit-trees are 
later than usual, grafting should now be brought to a close. Complete the 
thinning, dressing, and nailing-in of Figs. Disbud Apricots in mild weather, 
thin the fruit, and destroy grubs by hand-picking. Continue to protect 
Peaches.^ but guard against producing tender growth by leaving the covering 
down in mild weather. Plums and Pears will also pay for extra attention to full 
exposure of the bloom on all favourable occasions. Towards the end of the 
month, the disbudding of Peaches may be commenced ; gradually perform this 
work on mild days, when the sap is flowing freely. Look to newly-planted 
Straivherries ; in dry weather flrmly tread the soil round the plants, mulch, and 
give a good soaking of water.—W. Coleman, Eastnor Castle. 
VEGETABLES. 
Kitchen Garden: Continue to sow successional crops of Beans and Peas.^ 
sowing twice through the month : Champion of England, Scimitar, Advancer, 
Veitch’s Perfection, and Victoria Marrow are all good varieties for sowing at 
this season. Sow some early French Beans on a warm border; it is a very good 
plan to sow a row at the foot of a south wall, for in that situation they are likely 
to escape spring frost; also about the end of the month sow some Scarlet 
Runners and Haricot Beans. Plant out Cauliflower., Cape Broccoli., and Lettuce 
that were sown under glass, first hardening them by exposure. When the ground 
is in good condition, get in the main crops of Carrot (Altringham, Surrey, and 
James’s Scarlet); also of Beet., Salsafy., and Scorzonera; and get the principal crop 
of Potatos planted before the month is out: Victoria, Eed-skinned Flourball, 
Eegent, Fluke, and Dunbar Eegent are all good late varieties, but I believe the 
best advice is that every one should plant the kinds that suit his own ground the 
best, for a variety that is good in one soil in other places may be worthless. 
Old roots of Rhubarb that were forced may now be divided, and planted out in 
rich light soil; give plenty of room between the plants. Dress and earth-up 
As 2 )aragus beds in dry weather ; new beds may yet be made. V\ani Horsei'adish., 
Jerusalem Artichokes, and Seakale., if not finished last month. Broccoli (Snow’s 
Early) and Cauliflowers (Veitch’s Giant and Walcheren) for autumn use should 
be sown at the end of the month, and all other kinds of Broccoli., Cabbage., and 
Kale should be sown now. The following are all good varieties of Broccoli for 
late use :—Frogmore Protecting, Hill’s June, Perkins’s Late Eichmond, and 
Carter’s Summer. Sow Celery., both red and white, for the main crop; and 
successional crops of Turnip., Spinach., Lettuce., Radish, and Small Salading every 
few days ; the latter should now be sown in a shady situation. Earth-up 
advancing crops of Beans, Peas, &c., and keep the hoe going in dry weather. 
Forcing-ground: All vegetables under glass, such as Carrots, Lettuces, Potatos, 
