104 
THE FLORIST AND FOMOLOGIST. 
[ May, 
if they are attended to, both the sender and receiver will be spared the mortification 
alluded to. 
Always cut the flowers early, in the cool of the morning, and when in their prime. Take 
a piece of cotton-wool, wet it, and wring it out; then twist it about the stalk. If tin boxes 
are used, they must not have sharp corners, or they will be rejected at the post-office; but 
when properly made, they excel all others for the pui'pose in question. At the bottom of ono 
of these place a piece of stout brown-paper (if thin, double it)^ let this be well damped, 
then lay the flowers carefully in, placing a piece of silver or tissue paper between each, to 
prevent their bruising each other. Over all place a piece of the same paper, and on this a 
little cotton-wool. Cover the box with paper, and the flowers will reach the extremities of 
the kingdom in good condition. 
Let us add the modes of faulty packing, to warn our friends against their adoption:—(1.) 
Placing the flowers in contact with dry cotton-wool, which clings to them, and abstracts their 
moisture. (2.) Putting them in thin boxes, such as have contained lucifers, &c., which in¬ 
variably get crushed in passing through the post-office. (3.) Putting the cotton-wool about 
them too wet, the moisture from which gets shaken over the flowers, and spoils their colours. 
(4.) Cutting the flowers after exposure to the sun, which ensures their falling to pieces on 
the journey; this also occurs if the blooms are stale. 
Some persons sending seedling flowers for an opinion think it best to cut them when 
not fully open, knowing that they will expand in water; but they should learn they do not 
show their true character, either in shape or colour, under such circumstances. A better 
plan is to cut off the pistil directly it can be done; this will ensure the flower lasting a 
considerable time. 
NEW POTATOS. 
®fHESE vegetables are great favourites at tbe table here, and being required 
in quantity, I endeavour to make the supply equal to the demand. To 
make myself the better understood, I may say that I plant the crop at four 
different times. On the south side of the forcing-ground here, was a dwarf 
wall 120 ft. long; I put up a corresponding fence 4 ft. high, leaving a space 10 ft. 
broad between them. As soon as the leaves fall in autumn, I get a great 
quantity raked up in the woods, and fill this space cram-full, treading them down 
well, and making allowance for their subsidence by building them up 5 ft. high. 
On this I place a lot of 3-light boxes, and into these a foot of rather light soil. 
The Potatos are planted immediately, and by care in keeping the lights well 
covered up, nice roots are formed by the second week in March. As fast as they 
are dug, French Beans (OshorrCs Forcing we like best) are planted; these afford 
us a capital supply during part of May and June, after which comes a crop of 
Vegetable Marrows. 
In November, I get in my second lot, using a brick pit with good lights ; no 
bottom-heat is used, but a good depth of soil is allowed. The tubers are also 
planted at once, 8 in. deep. On the top are planted Lettuces sown the third week 
in August; these are very useful for salads during March and part of April. 
The Potatos in this pit come strong, and afford a capital crop in April and May. 
The space is then planted with, or rather, has Tomatos in pots plunged in it, 
and these ripen nicely. 
My third lot is planted in a similar manner about Christmas; and after 
planting, a lot of Endive is put in, to be used in inclement weather. These are 
dug in May, when the pit is filled with Basil, Marjoram, and other tender herbs. 
The fourth lot I am not able to plant till the 1st of February, but as soon as 
