106 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[MAY, 
require always a moist, soft atmospliere, and cannot be subjected to tbis ordeal. 
Lycopods should be potted up in quantity. ' Selaginella denticulata in 3-inch 
pots is invaluable for autumn and winter decoration. 
Stove Plants^ as Stephanotis^ Bougainvillea^ and other creepers on trellises, will 
now be flowering freely, and should be kept cool, in order to prolong their bloom 
as long as possible; water these and Gardenias freely with tepid liquid-manure 
water. Bananas in a ripening condition should be cut and hung up in a drier 
and airier house, which will prolong the supply. Planted-out Allamandas^ Thun- 
bergias^ Ipomceas^ &c., should get liberal waterings, now that they are beginning 
to grow and flower freely. Pot Caladiums^ Gloxinias, and other bulbs or tubers. 
Gloriosa superba is a plant worth growing on liberally. Crinums should be put 
into a cooler place when in blossom, and the flowers preserved from wet. 
Orchids will require attention as to watering, now that a free growth is 
taking place. Add sphagnum moss to those that were lately potted afresh. 
Those in an unhealthy or growthless state had better be shaken entirely out of 
cold wet peat, and potted afresh into smaller pots, in pure sphagnum and clean 
crocks, with sand mixed. Peat should never be used but to large healthy plants, 
and then only the fibry part, with all the smaller particles shaken out. 
Greenhouse: Shift on any of the Chrysanthemu'm that may be wanting it, 
and stop the longest shoots for the last time. These effective autumn decorators 
are worth a good deal of attention, and no pains should be spared to get them 
into as healthy a flowering state as possible. As they are, as a rule, chiefly 
raised for cut purposes, unless it be a few choice plants, the ordinary simple mode 
of striking will be sufiScient. Sow Cineraria and Primula^ also Cyclamen^ and 
Celosias, for late flowering. Pelargoniums must be well attended to with water, 
and all those wanting a support trained into shape ; galvanised wire, of a proper 
thickness and length, will be found effective and convenient. Heaths^ Epacrises^ 
and all hard-wooded plants are apt to get dry at the bottom of the pot, if not 
watered thoroughly when required; any that may still require a shift should get 
it at once, a piece of grey paper being put around the pot to shade it from the 
sun. Shading the pot of any choice plant with a thick paper cover, fastened 
with a pin simply, is a piece of practice not often seen, but an advantage that 
might be made use of, in the same way that paper is a good shade for the flower. 
The brown paper will last till the plant is got well rooted into the new soil, when 
it will cease to be wanted.— Henry Knight, Floors Castle. 
FRUITS. 
Pines: Maintain a steady bottom-heat of 85° to 90® in the fruiting-house, 
and let the air-temperature range from 75° to 90° with sun-heat. |Syringe over¬ 
head two or three times a week on fine afternoons ; shade from bright sunshine ; 
and while guarding against indiscriminate watering at the roots, see that plants 
in active growth do not suffer for the want of it. Succession plants that have 
taken to the new soil must have plenty of heat and moisture, to promote vigorous 
growth; sprinkle the paths and syringe overhead about 3 p.m., allowing the pit 
to run up to 90° with sun-heat; shade slightly in bright weather, and allow the 
night temperature to fall to 60°. Shift rooted suckers before they become pot- 
bound, and plunge near the glass in fermenting materials. 
Vines: In houses where Grapes are approaching maturity the night tempera¬ 
ture should not be less than 65°, with a little night air. The temperature by 
day may range from 75° to 85°, with 5° more for Muscats. Gradually reduce 
the heat and atmospheric moisture as the Grapes become ripe, but keep up a 
