138 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
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part of eacii. If the compost look heavy, I add charcoal, like split peas, to keep 
it open. 
Underground-signs that the Auricula is satisfied with its soil are, that the 
roots fibre out minutely among it, are long, and white, and strong, and as fond of 
the middle of the ball as of the sides of the pot. The foliage will speak for 
itself. 
The second important operation in repotting is the preparation of the plant. 
Turn it out of the pot, and quietly crush away as much of the ball as will leave 
the roots. Hold the plant by the middle of the neck, at the base of the foliage, 
and not lower, for fear of breaking some of the strong young roots, still pushing 
from the stem or “ carrot.” In this position, clear away the soil so that you can 
detect the least unsoundness in the stem. Cut this back until the whole appears 
perfectly sound. It is no use leaving a long “ carrot,” partially decayed, or with 
old inactive roots. At aU risks, therefore, seek to have a healthy stem, even if, 
in occasional instances, you have to cut up to the neck for it, or carve out holes 
to work out a cankered piece. 
Artificial as this operation of shortening may appear, it yet has its foundation 
in the natural habits of the plant, and is, therefore, sound practice in high cul¬ 
ture. Observation will show that the Auricula periodically parts with a portion of 
its underground stem by a process of natural decay, no doubt safe enough in 
wild life, but not so trustworthy in the case of plants almost constitutionally 
altered by breeding and culture, as the Auricula is. 
I have often found the line between the living and the dead stem so sharply 
defined, that the least force parted them, and showed the vital surface so sweetly 
healed, that interference with the knife would have been a blunder. Where 
cutting is advisable, it should be done with a sharp knife, and the wound rubbed 
with charcoal-dust. Healthy stem is cucumber-white inside, but one or two 
Auriculas—“ George Lightbody,” for instance—have naturally a purplish “ wood,” 
and this must be noted, and not slashed at in mistake for rot. 
The third important part in repotting is the replanting. Have the pots 
clean, and not too big. For the largest plants, a 4-in. to 5-in. pot is amply 
sufficient. Secure a good drainage, and have the compost at a nice, friable 
moisture, not so wet as to stick clammily together, nor so dry as to refuse water 
kindly. Spread out the roots of the plant upon a cone of soil within the pot, 
and pot up firm. Keep the plants shut close for a week or so, and do not be 
tempted to make them too wet. After this let them have plenty of air, but no 
heavy rains or wind. 
Work for the Month. —Where repotting is not done now, the plants may 
have air freely by night and day, and not too much of the water-pot. Keep the 
surface of the soil stirred, and so free from moss and weeds. On dewy nights the 
plants will be much refreshed if the lights are thrown off, so that they can be 
bathed in the gentle moisture. As the flowers die, break off the stem just below 
