1876. ] 
GARDEN WORK FOR SEPTEMBER. 
203 
as the days shorten and the sun weakens. Train-in creepers, such as Tacsonias, 
&:c., in such a way that they don’t shade too much by-and-by. 
Greenhouse: Richardias should now be divided and potted on, if wanted in a 
small state, but where wanted for flowering in quantity for cutting they may be 
simply shifted on into larger pots, using rich soil, with plenty of rotten dung 
through it. It is a handsome flower, and stands in water in a cut state a long 
time. Encourage growths of Tea Roses^ and keep them free of green-%. Every 
growth after this season will flower, if attended to. Stake Tuberoses as they 
show their spike, and retard them if wanted late, by shading. Roman Hyacinths 
should be potted in quantity, in pots of 3, 5, and 7-in. diameter, and three, flve, 
and seven bulbs in each. A dozen or more may be put into pans 12 in. in diameter, 
and Selaginella denticulata pricked over the surface. Pot on Tree Carnations 
into plain loamy soil and sand. Sow plenty of Mignonette in pots. Stake 
Chrysanthemums and give manure-water. 
Stove : Orchids should be kept thoroughly clear of insects, and new sphagnum 
added if necessary ; shake out any that is in any way in a sodden state, and pot into 
clean pots and moss. Now is the best time to pot Vandas and Aerides^ and most of 
the evergreen orchids. Shading may be dispensed with altogether by the end of 
the month. Avoid fire-heat for some time to come—October is soon enough to 
begin a little at night.— Henry Knight, Floors Castle. 
FRUITS. 
Pines: If not already completed, the shifting of succession pines should be brought 
to a close without delay. Suckers may still be potted, using 6-in. pots, plenty 
of crocks, and pure turfy loam. Plants on which the fruit is swelling must bo 
encouraged with plenty of heat and moisture. A few of the most promising of 
the early potted plants which have filled their pots wutli roots should now bo 
selected, and placed where they can receive more light and air for a month or 
six weeks, to prepare them for throwing up early in the spring. A general 
division of the stock into sections will greatly facilitate detailed management. 
Vines: The present season has been highly favourable to the advancement 
of late Grapes. Apply fire-heat when necessary, with pienty of ail’, to insure 
colour and finish by the end of the month. Prune the earliest house, also pot- 
vines ; divest mid-season and young vines of all laterals from buds intended for 
producing next year’s crop. Encourage newly-planted Vines to make surface- 
roots by keeping the mulching moist, and aid the ripening of the wood by means 
of fire-heat. Gradually reduce heat and moisture in houses in which Muscats 
are quite ripe, otherwise they will shrivel; collect materials for the renovation of 
vine borders, and lay in a good supply of fern for the protection of the roots. 
Peaches and Nectarines: Eeplace the lights on the earliest house before the 
inside borders become drenched with cold autumn rain, which may be copious 
after the long drought. Assist the ripening of the wood in houses from which 
the fruit has been gathered, by thinning out the shoots where overcrowded. 
Keep the foliage clean by frequent use of the syringe, and dress with Gishurst 
for scale. Root-prune, replace, and make all necessary work about the roots 
complete by the time the leaves are off the trees. 
Figs: Trees in pots under movable lights, from which the second crop has 
been gathered, will derive benefit from a month’s exposure to autumnal rains, 
but the annual disturbance of roots which have penetrated the plunging material 
is not desirable. Trees swelling-off late fruit must have fire-heat to complete 
the growth and ripening of the young wood. If scale becomes troublesome, the 
