204 
THE FLOEIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ September, 
wood may be well scrubbed with a strong solution of soap or Gishurst. 
Syringe freely on fine days, but let it be done in time for the foliage to become 
dry before night. 
Hardy Fruits: The protection and gathering of ripe fruit will now require 
particular attention. Apples^ Pears ^ and Stone Fruits^ if dry, should be gathered 
early in the day. Attend to the roots and foliage of newly-planted trees, as 
red-spider is unusually troublesome. Early-stopped vigorous shoots will now 
require a second stopping to the second bud ; follow up nailing-in and training 
of young growths. Remove or turn aside leaves which shade Peaches and 
Nectarines^ and cut away all useless spray which may be robbing the fruit. 
Assuming that the requisite number of Straviberry-plants have been potted up 
for forcing, and placed on a floor of coal-ashes, through which worms cannot 
penetrate, all surplus plants should be planted out as directed last month, well 
mulched and watered. These plants will give the finest fruit next year, and 
produce abundance of strong runners much earlier than plants that have borne 
a crop of fruit.—W. Coleman. 
VEGETABLES. 
The hot dry weather we have experienced during the past month afforded a 
good opportunity to keep down weeds ; still the hoe must be kept moving among 
the crops, as well as in every other part of the garden, during the present month, 
in order to get all clean before bad weather sets in. Take advantage of dry 
weather to earth-up Celery; in doing this, it should each time be first gone over 
with the hands, and the soil pressed firmly round the plants, and afterwards the 
earth should be banked up with the spade. Cardoons should also be earthed-up 
as they advance in growth. 
Take up Onions as soon as they are ripe, and get them well dried before 
housing them ; if the weather is damp after they are pulled up, it is a good 
plan to place them on hurdles or under glass to dry. Hoe and thin advancing 
crops of Turnips and Spinach; if the winter crop of the latter was not got in 
at the end of last month, it should be without delay. Endive (Green-curled 
and Batavian) sown last month should now be planted out, and another sowing 
made at once. The last sowing of Lettuce should also be planted out, and 
another sowing made of some hardy kinds; tie up those to blanch that are getting 
fit for use. Potatos that are ripe, and the tops of which have died away, may 
be taken up ; the late kinds had better remain in the ground for some time 
longer. Tomatos on walls should now have full exposure to the sun ; cut away 
all young growth, and a portion of the large leaves as well, if any are shading the 
fruit; do not give them any more water. 
Sow the different kinds of Cauliflower on a sheltered border or in a frame ; 
these are intended for planting under hand-glasses late in the autumn, and for 
spring planting, and should be sown about the 15th of the month. Sow also a 
little Lettuce (Brown Cos and Hardy Cabbage) in a cold frame about the 20th. 
These may be very useful in the spring, in case of any accident to the winter 
plants outside. 
Forcing-ground: Cucumbers bearing in frames should have the linings 
renewed when the heat declines; give plenty of air in the fore-part of the day, 
but close the frames early in the afternoon, to economise sun-heat. Continue to 
thin and stop the shoots, and water about twice a week—occasionally with liquid 
manure ; cover the frames with mats, if the nights are cold. Those sown last 
month, and intended for the winter supply, should now be planted out in large 
