228 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ October, 
Figs: Maintain a temperature of 60° to 65°, with a rise of 10° from sun- 
heat, to ripen off the late crop. Give sufficient water at the roots, but keep the 
house dry with free ventilation. The earliest pot-trees will now be resting. If 
the lights have been taken off, they should be replaced before heavy rains set in. 
Strawherries : Remove runners and weeds from the soil. Give the plants all 
the light and air that can be obtained by setting the pots thinly on a hard, dry, 
elevated piece of ground, or on boards where worms cannot reach them. Water 
sparingly to facilitate the ripening of the crowns, and remove to cold airy pits 
towards the end of the month, if bad weather sets in. La Grosse Sucree is a 
promising kind for early work. 
Hardy Fruits : The gathering-in of Apples and Pears will now require daily 
attention when the weather is favourable ; store thinly on the shelves, and venti¬ 
late freely. Protect late Peaches from birds, and gather into a late vinery to 
finish, if ripening on the trees is doubtful; remove the leaves as they become 
ripe from trees that have been cleared, and remove all old-bearing wood, to admit 
sun and light to this year’s growth. Have soils and drainage ready for renova¬ 
tion and planting as soon as the leaf falls, as success greatly depends upon the 
early performance of this operation before the ground becomes cold and wet. 
Mulch Strawherries and Raspberries^ but do not disturb the roots. Prepare 
shreds and training materials on wet days, to be ready for the pruning and nailing 
of Currants^ Plums, and Cherries, as soon as the leaf falls, and while the weather 
is sufficiently mild for men to stand out with some degree of comfort.—W. 
Coleman, Eastnor Castle. 
VEGETABLES. 
As the time is approaching when we may expect sharp frosts, preparation 
should be made to cover, with glass or otherwise, such things as full-grown 
Lettuces, Tomatos, and French Beans, which will be the means of extending the 
supply of these a little longer; but whatever covering be used at night, the 
plants should have all the benefit of air and light through the day. Plant-out 
Cauliflowers under hand-glasses as soon as the plants are ready. Some may be 
planted on the south side of small ridges in the open ground, and if the winter 
is not severe, they will do very well; it is also an excellent plan to pot a lot of 
plants in 5-in. (48) pots, and place them in a cold frame to winter, for these, if 
planted out about the middle of March, will be quite as forward as those nursed 
under hand-glasses all the winter. Prick-out the small plants in cold frames for 
spring planting. Early in the month choose a piece of rich, open ground for 
planting a good breadth of Cabbages, for use in the spring. Take care of all 
small plants, and prick them out in a sheltered situation for spring planting. 
Plant-out Lettuces (Brown Cos and Hardy Cabbage) on a warm border where the 
soil is dry ; tread the soil moderately firm before planting, and sow a little more 
seed of Cos Lettuce under glass. 
Cauliflowers and Cape Broccolis that are heading-in should be protected from 
frost, by breaking down the leaves over the heads, or by placing a handful of 
fern over the top ; or they may be taken up as soon as the heads are formed, and 
placed anywhere under cover. Tie-up Endive, as it may be required for use, and 
if any plants of the last sowing remain on hand, plant them in any sheltered corner, 
or at the foot of warm walls ; these will be very useful late in the spring. Prepare 
a piece of rich soil for planting-out Tripoli Onions at the end of the month. 
These, if required to be of large size, should be planted in rows 15 in. apart, 
and 6 in. between the plants in the row. 
Take advantage of dry days to earth-up Celery and Cardoons, as before 
