230 
THE FLOEIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ October, 
to February. This was raised by Mr. John Cox, gardener at Redleaf, near Pens- 
hurst, Kent, and received a First-class Certificate from the Royal Horticultural 
Society, January 20, 1875.” 
This Apple will undoubtedly prove a most valuable addition to our high- 
flavoured very late table varieties. The entire stock is in the hands of Messrs. 
W. Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, Herts, who will be prepared to distribute it in 
November next.—P. 
THE CULTURE OF WALL-FRUITS. 
Chapter VII.— The Peach and Nectarine {Continued). 
EFERRING again to the maiden tree, or the first year’s growth from the 
bud, this should be lifted in the autumn, when the leaves have performed 
their office, and replanted after removing any large roots. In the following 
March the shoot should be headed back to about six inches, taking care 
to make the cut sloping at the back of a prominent front bud. As a general 
rule. Peaches break very freely when early planting has been attended to, so that 
there will be no difficulty in selecting five shoots, two from each side to be trained 
out nearly horizontally, and a centre one vertically. The side shoots may be 
allowed to grow out their whole length, and any lateral shoots which may be 
formed should be kept well stopped. The centre shoot, however, should be 
stopped at about a foot, and any after-tendency to make strong growth repressed 
by constantly pinching back. The trees must not want for water. In the 
autumn, if dry weather prevails, and when the leaves have fallen, shorten the 
shoots a little ; but let the final pruning be left until March, at which time cut 
back the side shoots to sound, well-ripened wood, of which there ought to be 
enough to allow of a length of 18 inches to the two lowest and rather less to the 
upper ones, whilst the centre shoot must be cut back to rather more than three 
inches with the object of obtaining two more side shoots, but not a centre one. 
As soon as growth commences, and the young shoots have progressed about 
an inch, the operation of disbudding should be commenced. This is an operation 
requiring much care, and should never be put into the hands of a person who has 
not previously been instructed, as it must be carried on in a gradual manner, by 
removing only a few shoots at a time, so as not to give the tree too great a check at 
one time. At the first disbudding remove carefully all the young shoots which 
have started on the front of the stem or branches, commonly called foreriglit 
shoots; the next time all which are on the under-side of the main shoots, always 
bearing in mind that the terminal shoot is to be trained forward for extension 
and future purposes, and that a strong one is also to be trained forward from 
near the bottom part (upper side) of each main side shoot. The remainder may 
be removed at short intervals, leaving only the two above described to be trained 
on—these to be treated as before advised, in regard to pinching back laterals, 
and so on. 
With regard to the centre shoot of three inches, one shoot only on each side 
