58 
THE PLOEIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ MAECn, 
exceedingly well adapted for growing as a pyramid tree on the quince stock, and 
also succeeds well as an open standard.^ The tree is hardy and a good bearer.—B. 
EOSES AND EOSE-CULTUEE. 
Chapteb I.— On Soils. 
a practical point of view, all soils may be arranged under the follow¬ 
ing heads ;—(1), Clayey, which includes the various kinds of loam ; (2), 
Peaty ; (3), Sandy or Gravelly; (4), Chalky ; (5), Eocky. 
1. Clayey soils vary from sandy loam, which contains 60 to 80 per 
cent, of sand, to strong clay, which may contain a like proportion of the clayey 
element. Then there are the intermediate soils, friable loam and strong loam. 
The latter is perhaps that best naturally adapted for Eose-culture. In all sucli 
soils, but especially in strong loams, is it most desirable that as a preliminary 
step in cultivation perfect drainage should be . secured. Strong or heavy soils are 
naturally the most retentive of water, and without thorough drainage we can at 
best but hope for imperfect success. Where a garden is of such soil, it is ad¬ 
visable, if possible, to drain the whole at least 3 ft. deep. Tiles or pipes are 
best for the purpose, although good strong bushes, if covered with straw before 
restoring the soil, are efficacious enough for some years. 
Let us, then, suppose the beds in which we are about to plant our roses have 
been cleared and drained. Next we proceed to trench the ground to the depth of 
2 ft., mixing in during the operation a good portion of rich manure and sand,, 
or old mortar. In heavy soils it is important that this be done when the soil 
works well, and it is well to throw the top spit in ridges, that it may become 
mellowed by the action of air, frost, and sunshine. Just before planting, the 
ridges may be levelled down ; and at planting time, each plant should have a. 
spadeful of manure in a thoroughly decomposed state mixed with the soil imme¬ 
diately surrounding it. In very strong soils it is probably best to prepare the 
soil in autumn, leaving it as light and rough as possible throughout the winter, 
and delaying the planting until March. Lime, old mortar,’sand, charcoal, bones, 
peat, and any decayed vegetable matter are excellent additions to the necessary 
stable manure for roses in strong soils. ^ 
2. Peaty or moory are less common than loamy soils, but if well drained^ 
they are not so unsuitable for roses as some would have us believe. I have seen 
vigorous, healthy plants, and beautiful flowers produced on such; indeed, for the- 
Tea-scented, Chinese, and Bourbon roses, a portion of peat soil is an advantage. 
But peat soils are often wet, when they must be drained ; they may also be very 
sandy, when a good proportion of clay, marl, or strong loam should be introduced, 
and well mixed with the soil in the act of trenching. 
3. Sand and Gravel are perhaps the worst soils with which the Eose cultiva¬ 
tor has to deal, on account of their too great porosity and aridity. Not only do* 
such soils possess too largely the power of absorbing the sun’s rays, but dew. 
