1870.] FROSTS V. FRUIT BLOSSOMS. ] 57 
to within an inch and a half of the top, leaving just a few fibrous roots sufficient 
to give the plant a start in its fresh earth. Young plants or offsets which were 
taken off and fresh potted in early spring, might do as well if just changed into 
larger pots, with part of the old ball of earth about them. 
As the plants are potted, they should be placed in a shady situation, and the 
lights should be placed over them for ten or twelve days, at the end of which 
time they may be taken off. Should the weather at the time be moist or rainy, 
allow the plants the full benefit of such rain as may fall gently upon them, but 
■carefully guard them against thunderstorms or very heavy showers. On the 
other hand, if the weather should be dry without appearance of rain, take a 
watering-can with a very fine rose, and give them just a gentle run over with 
soft water. Eain-water is the best, and should be used at about the temperature 
of the atmosphere at the time. At first give the plants only just a slight run 
over, to revive them and to moisten the soil at the top of the pots ; but repeat 
this gentle watering every evening after sunset for a week or so, by which time 
the mouldy will have got sufficiently saturated. After that the plants may be 
placed out in their summer quarters, the best situation being at the back of a 
north wall, where they can get a little morning and evening sun. In this 
position the plants will keep all right—allowing them now and then the benefit 
of a nice shower, but guarding against and keeping off heavy or long-continued 
soaking rains—till the middle of October, when they will require removing to 
their winter quarters, where, however, they must still be allowed to be open and 
exposed during all fine dry weather. After November sets in, the plants should 
be kept tolerably dry by keeping off the rain entirely, and only just allowing them 
sufficient water to keep them alive. This kind of treatment should be followed 
up to the end of January, about wdiich time I will endeavour to furnish a few 
observations on spring treatment and blooming.— John Hep worth, Huddersfield. 
FROSTS versus FRUIT BLOSSOMS. 
HE effects of Frost* are in many instances very plainly presented to us, 
when, as with Potatos and the young shoots of the Walnut, the leaves are 
blackened and destroyed; or as with Gooseberries, when the berries are 
seen to be blistered and discoloured, and within a day or so fall from the 
tree. Again, its effects upon stone-fruits—Apricots, Peaches, Cherries, and 
Plums—are plainly shown and pretty generally understood. The injury may be 
first committed on the style or pistil, yet it soon descends to the ovary, and the 
whole fruit rapidly becomes blackened, and is seen to be dead. One second’s 
observation will show this,—the mere opening of the scales of the calyx, and 
•splitting the flower, or what covers the young fruit. 
In the case of the Apple and Pear, the injury which is effected through frost 
* We borrow the accompanyiag article and illustrations from the Journal of Horticulture. The subject is 
one of much importance to gardeners, and we are glad to be able to draw their attention thus pointedly to it. 
