MARCH. 
79 
but if very large examples are wanted, it will be expedient to grow 
plants a second season before allowing them to flower, and in 
this case it will not be necessary to start them into growth so 
early in spring as when they are intended to form flowering specimens 
the same season. With good management from the first, and an 
early start, nice plants in 10-inch pots may be obtained in time 
for flowering the second season. To effect this, place them in a light 
airy situation, close to the glass, early in February, or as soon 
after as circumstances will admit of a moist temperature of about 
50*^ or 55*^ being maintained. When growth commences give a 
liberal shift, and, as I have already stated, attend to the formation of 
well-shaped specimens by stopping and training the shoots, as may be 
required. Water must be carefully administered for some time after 
potting, but when the roots strike into the fresh soil, and the plants 
commence to push vigorously, a liberal supply will be necessary, and 
clear manure water from the stable or farm-yard tank, diluted with an 
equal quantity of clean water, may be given frequently. Stopping 
should not be practised after the middle of May, or the plants will be 
late in flowering, as blossoms are not freely produced till the wood 
becomes rather firm. And when the shoots produced, after the final 
stopping, are from 4 to 6 inches long, the plants should be removed to 
the warm end of the greenhouse, or to a cold frame, and gradually 
accustomed to a free circulation of air, full exposure to sunshine, and a 
rather dry atmosphere, which will check growth and hasten the produc¬ 
tion of flowers. While in blossom give a liberal supply of water to the 
soil, and avoid exposing the plants to cold drying currents of air. 
When the beauty of the specimens is over for the season, they may be 
rather closely pruned and removed to a light airy part of the green¬ 
house for the winter ; and if repotted in the spring, and treated the 
following season as just directed for last, they will form very large 
specimens, and this in time to be in full beauty in June or early in July. 
But after flowering this time it is hardly advisable to retain the plants 
in hope of their being further useful, for they seldom prove of much 
further value, and unless watered with great care during the autumn 
and winter they become a certain source of disappointment. This, 
however, need be the cause of no regret, inasmuch as young plants are 
easily propagated, requiring but little care ; and as these form nice 
useful sized specimens, the plants that have flowered in large pots may 
be thrown to the rubbish heap as soon as their beauty is over. 
A rich light porous soil is essential for the successful culture of the 
Chironia. 1 use rich turfy peat and turfy sandy, loam in about equal 
proportions, with a liberal mixture of silver sand ; and for plants to be 
thrown away after flowering, I add a sprinkling of thoroughly decom¬ 
posed cow-dung. For young plants a quantity of broken potsherds, 
broken bones, or charcoal, is useful in securing perfect drainage. Let 
the soils be well broken up and intimately mixed before use, and see 
that they are in a proper state as regards moisture. 
