MAY. 
153 
ROSES. 
I EXPECT the late Russian winter will effect one or two reforms in 
Rose growing, by what I hear and see. It is a fact that nearly all the 
standards and worked Roses are dead; while those growing on their 
own bottoms, though the upper wood may be killed, are breaking strongly 
from the bottom. La Reine, Geant, Duchess of Sutherland, Lord 
Raglan, Madame Vidot, Prince Leon, Madame Knorr, Lord Palmers¬ 
ton, Eugene Appert, Anna des Diesbach, Cardinal Patrizzi, La Ville 
de St. Denis, and a host of others, struck from cuttings, and growing 
in an exposed situation, are throwing up shoots strongly from the 
bottom; and so are even Devoniensis and Souvenir de la Malmaison. 
Of course it will take some time to work up a stock on their own roots, 
as it takes time and good cuttings to do it; but as we must come to 
this, the sooner it is set about the belter. 
Standard Roses are now being generally condemned ; the Florist has 
taken the lead in the matter; and I see the veteran king of Rose 
growers feels that their days are numbered ; and his business shrewd¬ 
ness has already suggested what form the next style of fashion in Roses 
is to assume. I am not disposed to question the soundness of his 
authority, but would advise amateurs like myself to cultivate their own 
stock. In September and October next all the sound healthy year’s 
wood will grow if made into cuttings and put firm into a sandy compost 
and covered wdth a handglass. In a sandy soil and a somewhat shel¬ 
tered situation the handglass is not necessary, as I have succeeded well 
without; but during frost you are enabled to protect the cuttings more 
readily; and some of the Chinas, Teas, and tender Perpetuals strike 
quicker with a glass over them. The glasses should have moveable 
tops, to give air, so as to keep the cuttings dry. If the cuttings are 
taken off in August or September, and if you can then get the wood 
tolerably well ripened, it is the best season. (They strike best when 
not fully ripened, but just when the wood begins to cut firm.) They 
will form roots freely during the autumn and winter, and you must 
judge by the progress of the tops as to the state they are in, as they 
will probably make a start to grow, in which case keep them cool by 
removing the glass top, or giving plenty of air. By March or the 
beginning of April you may take up the cuttings and transfer them to 
a mellow piece of ground, in rows, 18 inches apart, to grow a year 
before final planting—or to beds, as may be required, d he cuttings may 
vary from 6 to 8 or 9 inches in length, of which two joints with buds 
will be above the ground when the cutting is inserted, and the rest 
below. The heel of the cutting should be at a joint, which should be 
clean cut through, and the buds taken out of that part of the cutting 
below the surface, to prevent future suckers. When put into the 
ground without glasses, any time during the autumn will do. These 
will have to remain all the following summer, and should therefore 
have more room, as some of the kinds will make a good growth. 
In detailing my own plan, and by asking you to publish it, I 
may do a service to others who, like myself, not have the means 
of buying largely every year worked Roses, and yet are desirous of 
possessing in abundance the Queen of flowers. What standards I have 
